Rock climbing nuts and hexes review reddit. Friends and zero friends are great too. 10 and harder as stances that allow one to use both hands to place hexes or tricams become more rare. I've recently started trad climbing as well and am using DMM nut set 3 (includes a set of nuts, offsets and hexes). Getting into leading trad routes? Learn how to choose types of passive protection, such as chocks, nuts and hexes. That said, folks climbed a lot on nuts, hexes, and tricams before modern camming devices were invented. 3” for wedgeshaped nuts and 3. Offset nuts are perfect in our rock. I wouldn't worry about the cowbell noise too much - do you really think you'll be carrying a full set of hexes every time you go out? If you don't want to climb trad, you don't need trad gear. Nuts and hexes are much more useful as a beginner (maybe not hexes as much). How effective different types of protection are will depend entirely on what sort of rock you'll be placing them in, so you really need local advice. If you're starting on Granite splitters as mentioned above however, cams end up being safer and a more useful way to With a subtly asymmetrical cross-section, flat sides and slight end-wise taper, they offer three different widths when turned on their axes and another when placed end-wise. I usually climb with a set of standard small nuts and the large offsets. Nuts and hexes all have a curved side, this is for camming them in, a fall will cam them in harder. I started climbing at the Avon Gorge, where cams are definitely not recommended as a part of a starter rack. If you want to buy some gear, check with your friends to see what they are missing. Just get a black and blue totem and you'll be set. I'm still pretty new at trad climbing and I was a hex sceptic until the other day - I went climbing somewhere different to my usual haunt - a rather exposed cliff where the erosion had scooped out the most marvellous hex placements - absolutely bomber! Classic, simple and light, these #4–10 Black Diamond Wired Hexentric hexes offer a wide range of placements across climbing conditions and shine in rapidly widening cracks where cams might walk out. Jan 8, 2024 · In reply to ROFFER: I think it all depends on where you climb and what the rock type is. They have strengths and weaknesses, and I wouldn't argue that they're really an acceptable replacement for cams in modern trad climbing. Modern rounded hexes are very cool and fun to place, but they are not a replacement for cams. We tested each through a wide range of fissures, scar pins, parallel-sided cracks, around blocks, and the like. On top of that, hexes provide better protection than cams only at a couple climbing areas in the country, and probably even then only on a handful of routes avoid, mostly for usability reasons: trango flex cams, rigid stem anything, anything with a U-stem like TCUs, tricams, hexes, ball nuts, big bros, extra large nuts. Oct 31, 2024 · Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. Cams are certainly easier, quicker and more confidence inducing but well placed passive pro is bomber. 5” for six-sided hexes. Hexes, tricams, ball nuts, and big bros are all in the same camp in my mind: you either know when you need them, you carry them out of preference, or you don't know that you don't need them. I have placed hexes plenty of times on Ryolite and hardly bother carrying them on other rock types. Aug 8, 2022 · A typical set of nuts, also called wires or chocks, consists of 10 to 12 pieces that start small—less than . I'd recommend you ask people who climb in the same areas that you do (or in the areas that you want to climb) what protection works there. Or, you can contribute by bringing the rope and draws. Next to Tricams, hexes took me the longest to conceptualize and visualize how they place in their cammed positions. We used each while ascending wind-blown alpine It will depend heavily on the type of rock you climb on. Hexes are affordable, but your friends may not want them. And some crags the cracks are so even and parallel that you won't have a use for them. In this update, we purchased 7 of the best sets and slid them into cracks of all sizes across the United States. Reply reply mattambo_ • This also would explain the reliance on nuts and hexes, which require a more stable stance to place in general. The chances that you'll need big gear is pretty small, and the hexes are light, cheap, and effective. Hexes are not needed except for novelty, I've climbed some stuff at Lover's Leap on passive pro only and that's when hexes are important. So next question: how often are you trad leading a grade where you realistically might fall?. Like tricams, hexes are practically obsolete, especially for climbers pushing 5. Easy to rack and place in bottlenecks, Hexes come equipped with durable, galvanized steel cables. I find the hexes and offsets tend to have the strongest placements and get placed more often but I definely still use the nuts a lot. 25” wide—and go up to about 1. So if I'm anywhere near typical of a rock climber getting on lead without having a lot of ground placement practice with them, you'd probably hate them too. owflimd utapn mqxd fcs ppyd xcvgnaj nam yiydg izwr odectr