flat strap photo

Totem cams vs c4. The ultralights were purchased in 2017 and were in a house.


  • Totem cams vs c4. 5 cam . 3 or . Which in this case would be Mastercams size #0 and #00, and again for the larger sizes be C4 sizes #3 and #4 or equivalent. In my opinion, one chooses to purchase Totem cams over others because of what they are capable of, as they are the most expensive cam out there. 75-2. The twin axle on cams like the C4s doesn't increase holding power - that principally comes from the camming angle - but it does increase the camming range. Placement for placement, their more rigid than the most flexy stemmed small cams, which makes them easier to Apr 11, 2019 · The narrow-headed Totem Cams take the cake for these types of situations, even offering narrower cams in the hand sizes. com. Apr 4, 2023 · While totem say the two lobe thing is only for aid, the fact that each set of lobes is independently loaded makes me much more confident in a totem vs a normal cam in weird placements where one set of lobes is much more compressed than the other. 3 1 yellow totem and 1 Z4 0. Folk who have Aug 22, 2013 · The Totem Totem can be placed on just two cams and both cams will be directly loaded so it will be the best two-cam placement you could hope for. 5 C4 covers that) or a single set of Totem Basics and singles of the smaller Totem Totems. Send me a PM please! Sep 27, 2010 · The Totem Cam have more parts so do not expect a longer lifespan than a BD C4. Having a tiny cam you can rely on to protect otherwise unprotectable sections of rock can make the difference We use pulleys and stoke to pull on some brand new Totem Cams. Same is true for older style single axle cams. Our top picks are Metolius and Runout Customs, but we list all the options, prices, shipping, and return times. Oct 4, 2023 · The smallest Totem cam size is a BD . Nice! The trigger and cam action seems a bit more refined vs C4. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. You can get more information inc Mar 31, 2019 · Totems are the best small cams ever, but if you're not doing any aid climbing or placing pro in weird flary stuff, then standard cams will do the job just fine. Data sourced from Steph Abegg's website. Apr 24, 2019 · Find the best places to resling cams. You'd still need micro cams smaller than the black 0. From left to right they are: Wild Country New Friend, Black Diamond C4, Totem Cam The design of the totem is simply better imo. Narrower? Follow topic: Email Notify on site Post Reply Page 1 of 1 Original Post Personally, I feel like id you're getting cams from BD, Metolius, or DMM/Wild Country, it doesn't really matter--you're getting a good cam. If there are a lot of pin scars they can be useful. Then doubles of c4 . Spezialisten werden deshalb vermehrt diese Geräte verwenden, müssen sich aber auch intensiv mit deren Einschränkungen befassen, evtl. 5 - 4 range, with a couple doubles. The new standard when it comes to offset single-stem cams, the Camalot Z4 Offsets feature our game-changing RigidFlex stem design, which as the name implies, stays rigid while placing them, yet flexes when you climb past, ensuring easy handling and less walking for a solid placement you can rely on. 2 1 blue totem and 1 Z4 0. En la siguiente tabla se pueden ver los rangos tanto de los Totem Cam como de los Camalot Ultralight. C4 for sizes . Then double that with c4's blue to purple. This review focuses on two new sizes at opposite ends of the range. Sep 16, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. May 7, 2019 · Black Diamond upgrades the most popular piece of trad protection, the Camalot C4, for 2019. Any thoughts on them for free climbing or sizing overlaps between the two? Dec 13, 2019 · The original Camalots were some of the first camming devices on the market, and since then Black Diamond have been gradually adapting them to improve the overall design. 75 1 red totem and 1 C4 #1 1 orange totem and 1 C4 #2 1 Jun 4, 2025 · If you are looking for a cam that will perform better than the C4 in a horizontal crack, look into the Z4, the Totem Cam, or any other cam that has a flexible stem. Also What are the best cams for aid climbing? A professional mountain guide discusses his top picks, and details the specific sizes, models, and brands he recommends. I would get the following rack if I were building from scratch: 1 z4 00 1 z4 0. In reply to discosucks: Full range of Totems, then C4s and X4s for the ranges that Totem cams don't cover, plus a C3 000. That being said I would highly recommend offset aliens if you get offsets. The 15g probably isn't a huge difference in weight but the force rating is. Also getting a #5 and #6 opened up heinous offwidths to me Jun 13, 2016 · - cam springs slightly more stiff than C4. WC said the springs combined with this surface and right angles (vs older helium curved edge) will help reduce Comparative table Friends climbing | MountainGear360 Here are the comparative tables of the main friends on the market today Purple (0. Drawbacks While the Totem’s flexibility Apr 21, 2025 · Die Totem Cams haben eine farbige Schlaufe, aber auch schon der Cam hat je nach Größe Farbelemente als Bauteile integriert. Featuring light, sculpted lobes with an optimized strength- to- weight ratio and slings with a visual differentiation on larger sizes for easier identification when racking. Apr 26, 2025 · Totem Cam, the state-of-the-art cam for climbing. The stem is rigid while placing the cam and flexible after the cam is placed to prevent walking. 5 and up. Jul 23, 2016 · Which do you prefer, or would you prefer? The weight savings seems to be negligible, so I'd assume purple and green totem, red ultralight. Apr 17, 2024 · Tabla comparativa de tamaños * Los Friends de Wild Country y los Dragon de DMM tienen la misma nomenclatura de colores que los Camalot C4 de Black Diamond. As long as you stick within those boundaries I think you're getting a damn fine product. The new Z4 cam is lighter (93g) but has a lower force rating (10kN) than the 2019 C4 cam (108g/14kN). The yellow alien is slightly smaller than a 0. 2 equivalent while the smallest Alien X size is in the same ballpark as the BD 0 and . If you want a good basic set of cams to last you for the next 10-20 years, choose mid-weight cams like C4, Friends, or Dragon cams. Marginal placements would pull out around 2kn. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. It's super easy to clean and how can you say it's awkward. 00) Totemcam. With all the horizontals at the Gunks, the flexible stem cams are much more useful than C4s. Their unique design works in pockets and holes where others simply can't fit. Compare their sizes on cam comparison charts. The Evos are a 5 cam set that replaces the 6 cam basic set. Jan 30, 2018 · The Black Diamond Camalot Ultralight trims down the weight of the Camalot C4 in several obvious and a few not so obvious ways. Small stuff I’d recommend totems above all else or aliens to shake it up a bit. I would get as many as you can. Nov 6, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Nov 9, 2019 · I'm looking at buying the 3 smallest sizes of Totem to fill the gap between the smaller 3 Dragonfly's/C3's and the C4's (0. Comparativa de modelos de friend Totem Cams Los Totem Cams son muy buenos en emplazamientos complicados (agujeros, fisuras poco profundas, rocas irregulares, etc) y por lo tanto […] Z4’s are overpriced and definitely not the best cams for the price. These offset lobe design ensures that you always have the right piece for pin scars and non May 3, 2017 · Hi guys! This is my overview of the Black Diamond C4 and the Metolious Ultralight Mastercam. Cam Comparison Chart "What's the equivalent?" Searching for new cams or piecing together a rack with a new climbing partner can feel like an overwhelming task at times, this comparison chart aims to make that easier. Currently I've got a full set of Dragonfly's but I'm not that fussed about the larger sizes. dragonflies? zero friends?? Any recommendations? The world’s best-selling, most trusted cam. You seem in bad faith. Jul 15, 2021 · With all the climbing cams on the market its difficult to know which ones to buy. The main way that they trim weight is by swapping out a metal cable in the stem for a dyneema sling (you heard that right), surrounded by a plastic sheath. Although I prefer to Totem cams in those small sizes to z4s and those are the two cams I climb with. 4 and the yellow alien doubles that size nicely. Wider throughout the entire arc. Thumb Loop vs Thumb Press Above: DMM Dragon (top), Wild Country Friend (bottom) I heard from a trad climber at an NC crag that it is better to have 2 different brands of cams compose your rack (Such as a set of c4's and a set of wild country friends) because even the same "size" will have slightly different dimensions. The Alien X cams are also made out of a softer alloy, just like the previous renditions, meaning they have better bite on the rock than some of the harder alloy more durable cams (C4’s Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. I'd recommend getting a single rack of C4's or Dragons, and then if you find yourself climbing the type of stuff where totems really come in handy, then go ahead and invest in a set from black to green. Jan 30, 2018 · Black Diamond X4s are an excellent complement to the Black Diamond C4s, offering more flexibility and narrower heads than their C4 counterparts, and keeping with the same familiar BD size range and color scheme. 3 to 0. We drop-tested and slow-pulled old cams donated by Timothy Neidmeyer, Bobby Hutton and Eric Nies. Aug 8, 2019 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Most cams in this size are pretty similar, but it's just that little extra something. When pulling on one side in a bomber crack, w Jun 24, 2022 · The benefits of Totems don’t stop at their lobe design; they have a flexible stem and a longer-than-most sling to reduce rope drag and the risk of cams walking on meandering pitches. For all the benefit of the cam it's no very expansive. Even climbing on Little Cottonwood Granite with weird flares and pin scars, one of my Metolius cams or an offset cam/nut fit the same or better than an equivalent Totem. The Totem Cam offers an extraordinary holding power and unique capabilities with the patented Direct Loading Camming Device system. Listening to you let's us believe the Totem is the deepest shitty cam while it's the best. Oct 5, 2017 · Background info: I've been climbing on each of these cams for several years, except the Totems, which I've been climbing on for 10 months, and the Wild Country, which I purchased only a few weeks ago but used many times on a recent week-long climbing trip. I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. Size (mm) 140160 C4 or Friends in 2024 Hi all. Also the z4 vs regular camalot the z4s have a narrower head width. Jan 30, 2018 · The burly trigger wires appear to be just as easily replaceable as the ones on the BD cams. führt der Totem die Zugseile komplett nach hinten bis zur Schlinge - bei allen anderen Herstellern werden diese quasi beim Oct 4, 2019 · In 2015 we gave Totem Cams a glowing write-up, praising in particular their high holding power and narrow head width. 1 1 black totem and 1 Z4 0. get a 3 for the low grades. 75 compliment each other really well and are more versatile than "standard" cams (C4, Friends, Dragons) in the same range. But those are my general opinions. com, where you'll find premium outdoor gear and clothing and experts to guide you through selection. I heard from a trad climber at an NC crag that it is better to have 2 different brands of cams compose your rack (Such as a set of c4's and a set of wild country friends) because even the same "size" will have slightly different dimensions. I find I trust my larger aliens over my smaller BD . The load pulls directly on the lobes rather than the stem, this has many advantages. Jun 4, 2025 · Wild Country Friends Cult Following: Totem Cams DMM Dragon Cams Metolius Ultralight Master Cams Editors Choice: Black Diamond Camalot C4 Trigger keeper in action on the Black Diamond #4 Quick Review The Black Diamond Camalot C4 is the gold standard climbing cam and recent improvements have shaved 10% of weight off of these workhorses. The one concern of our testers is the extendable Dyneema sling, which doesn't seem as durable as the sling on the Black Diamond C4s. I've placed and handled nearly every cam on the market, so feel free to ask qs Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. 5) X4 vs Purple (1. Reply wakerider47 • Es gibt aber Gründe zur Annahme, dass Aliens (Fixe Revolution und Totem Basic), Totem Cams und Ultralight Master Cams im Zweifelsfall besser halten. Sep 29, 2023 · Ultralight cams help reduce the weight of your load, but like all lightweight gear, they will not last as long. Obviously the newer raw cam surface feature here as well. For over 35 years the Camalot C4 has been standard on every trad climber’s rack. We put the best climbing cams from Black Diamond, Metolius, Totem, and others to the test. DMM is the best for carabiners, quickdraws and, specially, nuts. They have coverage into the BD C4 range - the largest alien, #1 red is the size of a purple. In Australia, I can get a set of 7 Totem cams for $800, OR I can order a set of 6 DMM Dragon cams (the ones I was sure I was happy with before researching Totem) for about $400 Sep 29, 2023 · Ultralight cams help reduce the weight of your load, but like all lightweight gear, they will not last as long. Sep 8, 2020 · Micro cams are among the most useful pieces of gear on a trad climber's rack. 5 C4. I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. Jun 10, 2019 · Black Diamond crafted one of the most versatile pieces of trad climbing protection with its ingenious new Z4 Camalot. This Cam Size Comparison Chart helps you compare models against one another in terms of sizing and range of use. Jun 7, 2016 · Right now my rack of cam's consists of BD C4's in the 0. Take this with a pinch of salt, you would be fine with Totem's as first cams, although you would have to buy larger sizes in other cams. Jan 30, 2018 · Totem Cams are our favorite cams for aid climbing because of their ability to engage only two lobes at a time, allowing for an endless array of strange, body-weight-only placements, multiple clip-in points, and super narrow heads, even in the larger hand sizes. Pros Compare different brands of trad climbing cams by range, weight, and strength A single totem is a similar ish price as the two metolius cams, and apparently they are that much better. I always choose a totem over other cams for cruxes, to protect off the deck, or for flaring cracks. Mar 24, 2021 · Rack of totems black to green and rack of Z4's 0. Thumb Loop vs Thumb Press Above: DMM Dragon (top), Wild Country Friend (bottom) Jun 19, 2021 · Comparativa de colores, medidas y rangos de friends de escalada Totem Cam y Camalot Ultralight. Jun 18, 2019 · Black Diamond Camalot Cams: Last generation Camalot C4 (left), New Camalot C4 (center), Ultralight C4 (right) The new C4’s hit shop shelves late last fall, giving enough time for gear nerds like to me play with them in Yosemite before the season ended. Shop the best selection of camming devices at Backcountry. Climbing Mouses Tooth in B. Black blue and yellow are always on my rack May 2, 2025 · A lot has changed since our original “ Beginning Trad Rack: What to Buy and What to Skip ” blog post in 2017. You can also use them on day to day routes. BD's unique take on the “ alien ” style cam includes their trademark double-axle design in the larger sizes and a “ stacked ” double-axle design in the smaller sizes to ensure Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. eine neue Farbcodierung verinnerlichen und beim Legen Aug 31, 2011 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The C4, Dragon and Friend are basically the same concept and you must arbitrarily decide which feels the nicest to handle See full list on outdoorgearlab. Sep 30, 2015 · The Totem Cams are a remarkable design and they work slightly differently from all other cams on the market in that they load the two different sides of the cam individually and also that the load goes straight on to the lobes, not via an axle. X4's as the absolute last option. should i bite the bullet and get a black blue and yellow totem to build some overlap? cuz theyre that good? Others really like their fixe alien's/totem basics, even the fixe revo aliens. I truly feel that these are the best cams on the market today. Here’s mine: Fixe Alien Black Fixe Alien Blue Totem Black Totem Blue Totem Yellow Totem Purple C4 ultralight 1 C4 ultralight 2 C4 ultralight 3 If I wanted to expand this set to doubles, I’d add in Fixe Alien Green, Yellow and Red, and C4 Ultralights from 0. Totem cams and camalot for the rest is my choice Reply reply RudeboyGru • That being said, if I were in your shoes I'd be buying Totem cams (the regular ones, not the basics). . This sling design also provides ample space for your thumb, making them an ideal choice for winter mixed climbing while wearing big gloves. 5 >). I can only say that Totem Cams are constructed with the better materials possible and the design looks for the durability. 2 days ago · Disagreement with Totem Cams OutdoorGearlab review - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Avis d'experts et athlètes haut niveau réunis dans 1 seul article . 4 1 purple totem and 1 Z4 0. What do you guys think? I'm new to trad so I would love any advice! Edit: Thanks for all the replies! Feb 3, 2019 · Conseils pour bien choisir votre coinceur mécanique ( Friends ). All the reviews I see are from when the X4's first came out, and most claim they prefer the X4's in these sizes. They walk less because of the flexible stem. Le Totem Cam offre une adhérence extraordinaire et des propriétés uniques grâce à son système breveté. Hard to quantify. 4 cams. And speaking of racki Compare different climbing cams. The Black Diamond Z4s are much lighter than X4s and Dragonflies. We prefer the Totem Cam (bottom) for aid climbing because it has a narrower head and a more flexible stem than the friend. So surprised to read the responses here. I am speaking from experience with these; my smallest C4 is a 0. Building out my small cam rack now and trying to decide between a double set of Totem Basics (in blue, green, and yellow, don't need the red as . I'm intending to flesh out the lower sizes later this year and am considering getting X4's instead of C4's. Like a Helium biner vs Hotwire, just a bit nicer. The softer aluminum lobes will bite harder when you need it most. BUT, it is still a two cam placement and the unit is not CE'd for that placement style, only for a conventional four-cam placement. After testing, we found the new Camalot cams are an off-width climber's dream. The gray alien is pretty close to a 0. Totem cams are superior to offsets in many placements. com For BD#4,5,6 I'd say the new BD C4's are the best due to the trigger lock mechanism, which really does make racking large cams a bit less daddy, also the BD 6 has a nice wide axle spacing like the old WIld Country 6. The dual axle design is largely obsolete, but it's still a proven concept that does the job. - cam lobes. The main point of this question is: I want to buy my own cams. Totems flexible stems are also favorable for horizontal cracks (gunks) vs semi rigid stems such as c4s or friends. They claim the new C4s are their best yet, lighter but no less robust, and with some new and genuinely innovative features. Sep 8, 2014 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 80. The black totem is my dark master but a mix of C4s, Z4s, Totems, nuts, and some tri-cams (for no nut November) is my current rack and I love it. Having used the previous generation C4s for the last seven years, I think all these changes add up to Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. My personal ideal rack is purple and green c3s, totem (regular) black to purple. Thought I’d shoot my shot and get a few more opinions before pulling trigger on one of these two sets of cams! Any one have experience climbing with C4 vs Friends? I am completely on the fence between the two. This has been posted a few times but years back. Created in the limestone capital of the universe (Spain Apr 18, 2018 · The Totem Cam is truly one of a kind, they offer extraordinary holding power by using a Direct Loading system. Aug 3, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. 4 C4, but they cover almost equivalent ranges. Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Jan 27, 2020 · However, friends swear by them. Hauptmerkmal ist die Flexibilität des Totem Cams - anders als bei Friends, Camalots etc. Thanks so much for watching my 3 Minute Review of Totem Cams. Black Diamond discontinued the much-loved C3 Camalots, updated the C4, discontinued the short-lived X4 line, and replaced it with a new line called the Z4, which is supposed to take advantage of the best features of the X4 but eliminate the floppiness so many people found difficult Jun 15, 2020 · They lack two features that are a boon while aid climbing: the ability to independently manipulate individual lobes, a large reason why Totem Cams are the top choice for aid climbers, and round shaped lobes, common among the “ Alien ” style designs, that often fit into blown out pin scars a bit better. Folk who have Nov 9, 2019 · I'm looking at buying the 3 smallest sizes of Totem to fill the gap between the smaller 3 Dragonfly's/C3's and the C4's (0. Again sorry I haven’t been to Squamish so im not sure what is best out there. The ultralights were purchased in 2017 and were in a house Jul 9, 2024 · Buy the Totem Cams Totem Cam online or shop all Climb from Backcountry. In the finger size range, the Fixe Alien Revolutions are narrower and more flexible, increasing their performance and durability in pockets and weird holes. Extraordinary holding power and unique capabilities with the patented Direct Loading system. Basically the black cam is made redundant. 50 and larger than the orange 1. From what I can see the Totem's win on about every count (holding power, head width, irregular placements) apart from they are a bit less flexible and heavier. And of course throw in the wonders that are Link Cams, Totem Cams, and Aliens. Will just be free climbing on them, mostly in Squamish. But IMO their Cams are second tier. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Nov 6, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Former employee of a certain new paltz gear shop. Otherwise you find the least expensive cam that fits what you want. The Black Diamond V4 Cam is a staple and probably the industry s Jul 10, 2019 · Black Diamond's 2020 Z4 cams will replace the C3 and X4 cams. C. Offset mastercams would be my next choice. If your gonna drop money on new stuff DEFINITELY get the small totem cams. 1 Z4’s, landing between the two. 5 1 green totem and 1 Z4 0. 5 to 3, as the Aliens sit between the Totems in sizing and are a little narrower. Also, if anyone knows where to find black totem cams. For any free or aid climber these hard-to-get cams are a must have. It's lighter than the old C4 while having a much complex design. No I can’t afford totems - ha! Thanks in advance. The following photo shows several of the reviewed cams. May 2, 2024 · I think if these are the first cams you are buying I would go with friend/camalots/dragons and supplement with Totems when appropriate. Go for the totems. erlv tyf ayvl ekruljp nbkgd aco xors qfqwfl ysddcaa qgv