Assisted braking belay device. (You still have to keep your hand on the brake rope.
Assisted braking belay device. Compact and lightweight, it can be used with single ropes from 8. Feb 3, 2023 · Many climbing gyms have banned devices that do not have assisted braking. Nov 3, 2020 · We've brought you all the best belay device reviews out there, so just sit back & enjoy. Similar to the Grigri, if the belayer gets knocked out by a rock while belaying, the Pilot automatically locks the rope securely in place and prevents the climber from Jun 7, 2024 · Neox is Petzl’s innovative assisted-braking belay device designed to meet all the needs of lead climbing on cliffs. Jul 6, 2023 · Then, every climber will be better equipped to discover what Assisted Braking Devices offer to the overall security of a belay or rappelling system. May 26, 2017 · The Ergo Belay is a lightweight belay device with assisted braking for outdoor and indoor sport climbing. There are two primary categories that belay devices fall under: either non-assisted braking, or assisted braking. Trango Vergo Belay Device is an assisted-braking belay device designed to bring new levels of safety and ergonomics to rock climbing belaying. 13 of the world's top devices, compared, and tested! A: There are few different types of belay and rappel devices: tubulars, plate/figure 8 devices, guide-style tubulars, assisted braking devices, and active assisted braking devices. Tube-Style Belay Devices How they work: Tube-style devices like the Black Diamond ATC or Petzl Reverso are very similar to the original belay device which was simply a metal plate with two holes in it. These devices, such as the Petzl GriGri and the Black Diamond Pilot, feature a mechanism that automatically engages and increases the friction on the rope during a fall, which can significantly reduce Apr 21, 2025 · The Petzl GriGri has ruled the roost for decades, but with the Edelrid Pinch we have finally seen an assisted braking device that knocks this old industry standard off its throne, says Rob Greenwood. It also allows rappelling in both standard and auto-blocking modes. Jul 24, 2019 · With the Birdie, Beal delivers a compact and aggressively priced assisted-braking belay device. This means that belayers are much Sep 18, 2018 · The Good & the Bad The Good: PRO #1 – Simple and lightweight assisted braking belay device that is under $50. Here’s a review from an REI expert. As things progress there is always resistance, but many would feel unsafe now if their belayer was using a belay plate or a figure eight May 6, 2020 · The range of belay devices has grown exponentially in the last few years, which means there’s plenty to choose from. 6 - 10. What Belay Devices Are There and How Do They Differ? Modern belay devices can be divided into two groups: manual braking devices (EN 15151-2) and braking devices with manually assisted locking (EN 15151-1). Dec 1, 2023 · The top 3 most wanted and most owned mechanical belay devices say a lot about how modern climbers use assisted braking. Sep 14, 2020 · – Best Assisted Braking Device For Beginners – Lead Climbing – Beal Birdie – Best Beginner Tube Style Belay Device – Black Diamond ATC Guide – Cheapest Beginner Belay Device Set – Black Diamond ATC XP Package Why Get A Beginner Belay Device? As you learn climbing it will initially feel very unsafe. It can be used for all climbing functions on a single rope, including lead belaying, top rope belaying, and single-strand rappelling. All of these modes allows for a nearly endless number of options when lead belaying, belaying the second, or rappelling, making this the most versatile device we have used. Weighing in at 2. Jul 3, 2025 · Unlike traditional tube-style devices, assisted-braking belay devices actually help the belayer hold a falling or hanging climber. Brake assist, or “assisted braking” is one of those features. In the gym or at the crag, it makes belaying easier with cam-assisted blocking. Tube-style devices are “passive” braking devices that rely on the use of a brake hand on the rope, below the device, to arrest Assisted belay devices have mechanisms or actions to help lock your rope off and provide easier control over lowering. This article covers some of today’s most common styles of belay devices on the market. Jan 3, 2024 · Across the spectrum of belay devices, there are many design features that help belayers catch falling climbers. This post is based on the content shared during that workshop. What is an Assisted Braking Device (ABD)? Traditional belay devices use friction to assist you in managing the weight of your climber when you need to catch a fall Mar 12, 2025 · The Petzl NEOX assisted-braking belay device cleverly uses a rotating wheel inside the cam to relieve a universal problem: unwanted activation when feeding out slack to a lead climber. Hopefully, this will provide a basic knowledge of the available devices to find what works best for you. , Ocún Bow) to apply braking force to a rope. Apr 27, 2021 · Traditional tube-style devices like the Guide don’t have any assisted braking (except when belaying from the top), but they will belay in all possible scenarios. Like most active assist braking devices, it has its own unique method of usage, which requires learning and some practice before it is safe to belay with. The assisted braking function makes belaying more convenient when holding a climber or catching a fall. Jun 4, 2024 · Petzl announces the new Neox assisted-braking belay device today, touting it as optimized for lead climbing. The assisted braking improves belay comfort when working a route and when arresting a fall. Switching to only allowing assisted braking belay devices, a move that many climbing gyms across the nation are making to improve safety in their facilities, is the next step in making sure everyone returns home safely after a great session at the gym. Thanks to its low, close-to-the-body position, the PINCH does not The assisted-braking resistor for increasing the braking effect when climbing in rope teams with major weight differences has a swivel joint that improves the device’s freedom of movement. In this case, the cam is held open by a trigger that you depress with your index Nov 6, 2022 · The tube-style device, assisted braking devices, and other belay devices have changed the face of what it means to belay. Keep reading to learn about the most iconic belay device– the Black Diamond ATC. Sep 20, 2018 · In this article, we will focus primarily on the assisted braking belay device and the different types available in the US market. This device is used in addition to a belay device, and we'll explain the ins and outs of how it functions in our hands-on review below. The assisted-braking resistor for increasing the braking effect when climbing in rope teams with major weight differences has a swivel joint that improves the device’s freedom of movement. Its ergonomic and intuitive design ensures that the brake hand remains on the rope at all times, while the responsive assisted blocking function offers an extra level of safety. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. Belay device types Tubular belay device Assisted braking belay device (passive) Assisted braking belay device (active) Figure 8 belay device What is a belay device? In short, the term “belay device” refers to any instrument that can be used to secure a partner while they climb or yourself while you descend from a fixed anchor. It has an anti-panic handle that locks the cam when it's pulled back too hard, adding an extra level of safety while lowering. Dec 5, 2024 · Types of Devices There are three basic types of belay devices on the market: Tubes, Auto Blocking Tubes, and Assisted Braking Devices (ABDs). Switching between the Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl GriGri is an active assisted-braking device that performs well in every belaying and lowering task, earning our highest honor as the best belay device on the market. It's an ideal device for belaying both leaders and top-ropers, either sport or Dec 22, 2022 · For example, if someone thinks having assisted braking feature makes a belay device better, they will side with the Grigri. Since the inception of the original Grigri 1, the Grigri has continued to set the standard for belay devices with cam-assisted blocking (braking). Time to clear things up once and for all Super easy to feed rope, strong assisted braking so when someone is hangdogging it isn’t so exhausting to hold the brake strand super tight, and it’s intuitive enough I can ask friends who normally use only an ATC to use it to belay me (as I prefer my belayer use some sort of assisted braking device when I climb). This option includes an automatic locking belay device and a locking carabiner with a safety gate. It is one of most expensive belay devices in our review, but its May 28, 2024 · Many climbers carry both an assisted braking device, like the GriGrior the Black Diamond Pilot, and a simple belay device, like the ATC Guide or the Nordwand Alpine. Its main strength is the exceptional rope glide, which allows the climber to clip smoothly and without hitches. g. My girlfriend isn't very confident belaying me on lead with an ATC so I feel like this will help us out. Aug 12, 2024 · Learn the basics, features, and benefits of assisted braking belay devices for improved safety and efficiency in climbing. Aug 24, 2018 · Assisted-braking belay devices allow for superior holding power when catching and holding climbers. Aug 21, 2018 · The Edelrid Ohm is a unique device in the climbing market. The camming mechanism (140) is moveably coupled to the housing (120) and configured to automatically . Most notable of these newer devices are tube-style devices with assisted braking, like the Mammut Smart from 2009 and, more recently, the Black Diamond Pilot. Assisted Braking Belay Rappel Devices Suitable for Trad and Alpine Climbing: Edelrid Mega Jul and Micro Jul, CT Alpine Up I am becoming more and more convinced that belay/rappel devices with assisted braking are a big improvement over traditional ATC or Reverso type belay/rappel devices. The idea is quite simple in its complexity: when the rope moves through the device too quickly, the device reacts in a way that reduces or stops the movement of the rope. But it wasn’t alwasys like that. Feb 21, 2020 · The Camp Matik is a mechanical assisted locking belay device with an anti-panic feature on the lever. Assisted-braking belay devices are commonplace at crags and gyms. May 27, 2024 · Assisted-braking belay devices, also known as self-braking or auto-locking devices, are designed to lock down on the rope under sudden force, aiding the belayer in catching and holding a fall. Jul 29, 2024 · Petzl's new Neox is a sleek assisted-braking belay device. It's a braking resistor that helps reduce the length of a climber's fall. Mar 23, 2016 · To appreciate and better understand this evolution, we've created a new monthly blog series: Innovations in Climbing. Dec 16, 2022 · Since the 90s, climbing belay devices have continually developed, particularly in the assisted braking device category. Feb 22, 2020 · The important thing to note here is that no belay device should ever be used hands-free; hence why they’re called assisted braking belay devices. 3 ounces, it's also light and affordable What is an ABD? Note: In Feb 2017, we organized a series of ABD workshops to educate people about different ABDs and talk about their advantages and disadvantages. It's suitable for ropes in the 8. Never release the rope with your brake hand, even with assisted braking. The semi-automatic operation ensures that the belay device immediately blocks in the event of a fall. Under the right conditions, assisted braking devices (ABDs) use a sudden load on the rope to engage a camming mechanism (known as active, or mechanically assisted braking devices) or pull the belay carabiner into a pinch point (known as passive, or geometrically assisted braking devices) to prevent the rope from passing through the belay device. It is primarily used while rock climbing to maintain a safe and effective climbing system. The Assisted Braking Devices we have in stock are designed to enhance belaying safety by automatically locking the rope during falls. It feeds slack with ease, securely catches lead falls, and securely auto-blocks when belaying a follower from above on multi-pitch routes. This includes most ATC devices and tube-style belay devices in the market. Is an assisted braking belay device worth upgrading to? Every climber should use an assisted braking device while climbing indoors or outdoors. Read More GRIGRI® Assisted Braking Belay Device The GRIGRI is a belay device with assisted braking designed for belaying both in the gym and at the crag. Choose Your Belay Device for Climbing or Mountaineering Petzl makes different belay devices for different disciplines: belay devices with cam-assisted blocking provide a comfortable belay experience, and manual belay/rappel devices allow the user to rappel on two rope strands. Assisted braking resistor increases the braking effect when climbing in rope teams with major weight differences Second generation design features a number of updates Designed to be installed in the first bolt of the safety chain and used in conjunction with a belay device Swivel joint improves the device's freedom of movement Clipping direction no longer matters when the device is clipped to Jul 25, 2023 · The Grigri is an assisted braking belay device designed for climbing inside or outdoors. What we don’t: Heavy, expensive, and requires a bit of a learning curve; cannot be used for double-rope rappelling. However, three main types of devices exist: tubular belay devices, assisted braking belay devices, and the figure 8. All of these are designed to be used clipped directly to the belay loop of a harness with a locking carabiner when belaying the lead climber, or when belaying a top-roping climber May 30, 2023 · Beginning September 1, 2023, non-assisted belay devices (tube-style, ATCs or similar) will no longer be allowed for belaying at the Source Climbing Center. ) Within the past 10 years Belay devices use friction created by a bend in the rope to catch falls and lower climbers. An internal rotating wheel reduces friction between the rope and the rope-pinching mechanism, making it easy to feed out slack to a leader without activating the assisted braking function. Like most passive assist braking devices, it has no moving parts, but provides extra catch and braking power by pinching the rope in between the device and the carabiner when weighted. The latter can be broken down further into active ABDs and passive ABDs. Read our review to see why it's our climbing editor's first choice. It provides considerable bite for catching lead falls, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs to rest, just like active-assisted brake devices. Including the different types of auto-locking (also known as assisted-breaking and auto-blocking) belay With conventional belay devices, the degree of braking applied during operation is almost entirely due to what position the braking rope is held and how hard it is held. They’re a step up in climbing comfort when spending long days at the crag. Our inventory includes top-of-the-line models such as the Petzl Gri Gri, Edelrid OHM, and Climbing Technology Click Up. Both compact and lightweight, it is used with dynamic single 9. Many devices have become quite use-specific, but they all follow the basic principle: the device will help you to control the flow of the rope, and therefore, help you to stop a falling climber. Apr 10, 2025 · When the climbing community shifted towards using assisted braking belay devices, Petzl led the way with the GRIGRI. The housing (120) may include a substantially enclosed rope channel (128) through which a rope (110) may extend to the climber. com Assisted-braking belay devices (also sometimes called self-braking, self-locking, auto-blocking or auto-locking devices) are designed to lock down on the rope when a sudden force is applied to it to help the belayer catch and hold a fall. The design of the handled camming mechanism enables Shop for Edelrid Belay and Rappel Devices at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. Mar 17, 2022 · The GriGri is an assisted braking belay device manufactured by Petzl. As a result, the clipping direction no longer matters when the device is clipped to the first bolt. Fortunately nowadays, climbers don’t like decking and belay devices have become commonplace. Equipped with an ergonomic handle, providing easy Dec 5, 2024 · The Edelrid Giga Jul combines assisted braking, standard tube-style use ("manual" mode), and auto-blocking all in one single device. Ensure proper training to use the device confidently and consistently. Jul 11, 2024 · Best Overall Belay Device Petzl Grigri ($110) Style: Assisted-braking What we like: Assisted braking allows for a more secure belay. The basic definition of an assisted-braking device is one that contains a function to increase the locking (braking) when the device comes under the sudden load of a fall. They vary in price, ease of use, safety features, and level of assistance with braking. Belayer requires significantly less hand braking force to arrest a fall Lowering a heavier climber is much Nov 10, 2010 · Designed for experienced climbers, the GRIGRI 2 belay device with assisted braking is designed to facilitate belay maneuvers. Does it need an introduction? GRIGRI sets the standard for belay devices. Follow manufacturer instructions, watch tutorials, or seek guidance at your local gym. At Momentum, the most prolific belay devices are assisted-braking belay devices, the first of Mar 23, 2022 · The difference isn't just about the terrain, but about the conditions you're tackling it under Types of belay device Broadly speaking, there are two types of belay device: manual braking devices and assisted braking devices. WHERE can climbers and belayers get and ABD device? The Source has the Petzl GriGri and Edelrid Jul2 available in our pro shop. Why use an Assisted-Braking Belay Device? Assisted-braking devices provide added peace-of-mind, as a sudden jerk on the rope from a falling climber engages the cam and stops the rope, whether or not the belayer is paying attention. Assisted braking devices Figure 8 belay devices What to consider More guides Belay Device Buying Guide Introduction Mar 1, 2023 · WHAT DOES THIS MEAN? Beginning March 1, 2023, non-assisted belay devices (ATCs or similar) will no longer be allowed for general use in our facilities. Feb 21, 2020 · The Mammut Smart Alpine is a passive assisted braking belay device that also works in auto-block mode for belaying a second directly from an anchor. Shop our range of high-quality brands including Petzl, Edelrid, Climbing Technology, and Black Diamond. They can help stop and hold a falling climber. Once you know and understand how to belay with one, you should be able to apply these skills to the other. These devices are essential for Jun 23, 2017 · UKClimbing recently ran a comprehensive comparative review of belay devices, in which the EDELRID Jul² scored highly, winning an award for 'Good Value'. Dec 9, 2016 · About this item Assisted-braking resistor to increase rope friction when there is a large weight difference between belayer and lead climber. We reviewed that back in 2013 and then the original Click Up was chosen as our Best in Test in our Assisted Braking Belay Devices group test in May 2017. Assisted-braking belay devices either use moving parts (e. A Grigri (styled as GriGri or GRIGRI) is an assisted braking belay device manufactured by Petzl designed to help secure rock-climbing, rappelling, and rope-acrobatic activities. Edelrid makes certain assertions about the Ohm on their website, including that “ rope handling when belaying a lead climber The Mammut Smarter Belay Package offers an assisted braking belay device at a more affordable price. How does it stack up to the Grigri? We put it to the test. com : PETZL GRIGRI Belay Device - Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking for Sport, Trad, and Top-Rope Climbing : Sports & OutdoorsGRIGRI Belay device with cam-assisted blocking. 9 mm to 11 mm diameters). Assisted Braking belay devices are also called semi-automatic. The success of this device has led to grigri becoming a common name for devices of this Owning more than one belay device can be practical for versatility. Assisted Braking Belay Devices Assisted Braking Belay Devices offer an extra level of locking safety in the event of a leader fall, as less actual force from the belayer is required to lock the device. Whilst EDELRID are well known for their extensive range of ropes, the extent of their belay device offerings may not be so familiar to you. The Grigri makes belaying easier and safer thanks to the cam-assisted braking mechanism. Feb 21, 2019 · After two recalls, Trango re-released what it calls 'the world's most ergonomic belay device. Dec 5, 2024 · The Edelrid Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking belay device, which means it can be used as both a traditional tube device and an assisted braking device when belaying the leader. Sep 21, 2023 · An assisted-braking belay device is in guide mode when it is clipped directly to the anchor and used to belay a following climber. The reason these devices are considered “passive” is because there are no moving parts that help to assist with braking. Manual Braking Devices in a Teaching Environment Manual braking belay devices like the ATC require the belayer to be at the top of their game, never removing their hand from the brake line while in use. Belay Device Policy: we now require Assisted Braking Belay Devices. Its main characteristic is a clutch that assists in braking under a shock load. But I'd definitely go with an active assisted braking belay device like the ones I mentioned in this post. What Is a Non-Assisted Braking Device? Non-assisted braking devices require the belayer to keep their hand on the brake end of the rope and will only catch the climber if their hand remains Assisted Braking Belay Devices – Advantages, Disadvantages, Differences by Florian Hellberg, Christoph Hummel and Sophia Steinmüller Alpine Safety Aug 13, 2024 · The Edelrid Pinch is a much-anticipated assisted braking belay device. PRO #2 – It adds an extra level of security to the belaying. Jan 15, 2018 · The new Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a lightweight assisted braking belay device for single-pitch climbs. Jan 4, 2024 · Assisted braking is when the belay device helps to slow the rope through the device or hold the rope, taking some strain off the belayer. With such high praise for the first version, could the new '+' model live up to, or even improve on, the Dec 22, 2023 · All of these scenarios would be way more sketchy if it weren’t for a belayer on the other side of the rope operating a belay device. Some belay devices assist the belayer into an assisted braking mechanism while others for DIY (do it yourself) personality requires locking or braking the rope manually. May 10, 2019 · The Click Up+ is an updated version of the popular Click Up assisted braking belay device that was first introduced six years ago. This article outlines considerations for those who are wondering if they should upgrade from basic ATC belay devices to auto-locking belay devices. Even better, we have belay devices with assisted braking. The Petzl GRIGRI is the undisputed May 15, 2025 · Assisted braking devices are a firm favourite among sport climbers, offering an extra layer of confidence when belaying, but they're not infallible. The terms "self-" or "auto-locking" are Jul 3, 2025 · From the Grigri and its successor the Neox to the Edelrid Pinch, we break down which assisted-braking device is ideal for your climbing. This post digs into it. The PINCH is a new versatile assisted braking belay device for use in sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing and rope access techniques. The PINCH is the first device on the market that can be attached directly to the central ring of the climbing harness. Jul 19, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl Neox easily feeds slack while lead belaying, and also provides a secure catch, making it our favorite belay device for belaying a leader and single-pitch climbing. Jan 7, 2019 · Amazon. For guide mode to work, the device must have a separate metal Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl GriGri+ is an active assisted-braking belay device. Now, there are tons of assisted braking devices, yet the GRIGRI has still largely dominated the market. 2 mm range. I'm just getting into outdoor climbing and looking for my first assisted braking belay device. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Are assisted-braking belay devices safer? The answer should be obvious, but this misconception about assisted-braking devices still persists. 5 to 11 mm. ' So we put the Vergo assisted-braking belay to a first look test. Check out our approved devices and learn more about this policy. Oct 23, 2023 · Types of Belay Devices For the purpose of this article, the only two categories of belay devices that will be discussed are tube-style devices and assisted braking devices (ABDs). (You still have to keep your hand on the brake rope. Here are some top tips for choosing and using an assisted braking device Pinch - a new belaying experience with the PINCH, a new, versatile assisted braking belay device for use in sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing and rope access techniques. The PINCH is a new, versatile assisted braking belay device for use in sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing and rope access techniques. With assisted braking technology similar to a Grigri, this device ensures smooth and secure control during belaying and rappelling. I recommend trying out the different types. Feb 12, 2024 · Assisted-Braking Belay/Rappel Device This type of device – also known as a self-braking, self-locking, auto-blocking or auto-locking device - is designed to react to a sudden force by locking down on the rope to catch and hold a fall. 3 mm diameter ropes (possible with 8. They include the Eddy (EN 15151-1 compliant), which offers full assisted-braking functionality Hi, I'm just curious to know which belay devices you (as a climber) prefer for sport climbing? I had no problem with my belayers having either an ATC or an assisted braking device such as Grigri, ATC pilot etc as long as the belayer feels safe and competent. There are two main types: Camming Mechanism Devices: These use an internal cam to lock the rope during a fall. However, if someone prioritizes simplicity and versatility, they will think an ATC is better. Experience enhanced security with the ATC-Pilot Belay Device. One embodiment of the present invention relates to an assisted braking belay system (100) with a housing (120), camming mechanism (140), and clutch mechanism (160). In the event of a fall, the OHM increases the amount of rope friction so that a lighter belayer can hold a heavier lead climber without difficulty. , Petzl Grigri ) or the geometry of the device (e. Although some people are not happy about this, there are some safety concerns that can be hard to argue with. The best models and brands available here Dec 13, 2023 · Assisted Braking Devices vs. 4 to 10. This article will qualify the use of Assistant Braking Devices according to the following principles: Assisted Braking Devices, when used correctly, provide a reliable backup to any belayer. May 13, 2025 · In reality, little, if anything has changed about GriGri’s camming and assisted-breaking mechanism since the device’s inception and, we have to be honest – it’s still one of the best-assisted braking belay devices around. Mar 20, 2025 · Assisted braking devices offer a significant advantage over manual devices by providing additional friction to help catch falls more effectively. Perfect for single-pitch climbs. An example of a tube-style device. These are sometimes called “passive assisted braking devices” or “semi-automatic tube-style devices,” and are somewhat less common. Brake assisted devices are designed to take the load off the brake hand of the belayer. yvzrgtlvssrfzuxosoodehwdoclbetpoicgolnweawzzs
