Finger strength training at home reddit. And yes we are scared of falling.

Finger strength training at home reddit. And yes we are scared of falling.

Finger strength training at home reddit. Edit:- I usually do pushups, squats and burpees at my academy. Jun 29, 2025 · Each finger has a name that’s used in daily English: thumb, index finger, middle finger, ring finger, and pinky. He basically stretched 1 minute video into 25 minutes missing all the crucial points. I'm at V5-6 and just consider finger now to try to break into V7. These bones are connected by joints and surrounded by a network of muscles, tendons, and ligaments, which allows smooth and coordinated movement. Not 100% on that though. Nov 21, 2022 · Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing capacity, endurance, and strength-to-weight ratio. As someone who has a gym background you might want to make sure you're not solving your problems with just strength. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. There is *some* overlap between grip training and finger training (climbing-specific) but, if you're looking to improve your ability to pull down on small holds, spring loaded grip training tools are likely a waste of your time/capacity to recover. I collected a fair amount of random equipment throughout the years and figured, why not? For lower body I am doing sandbag lifts with bags weighing between 150 and 250 lbs (I figure this will be plenty for now). Both target finger and grip strength, but I'm curious about their comparative effectiveness for climbing. I was wondering if anybody knew good exercises and routines to strengthen my fingers and wrist. FINGER meaning: 1 : one of the five long parts of the hand that are used for holding things; 2 : one of the four that are not the thumb In humans, the fingers are flexibly articulated and opposable, serving as an important organ of tactile sensation and fine movements, which are crucial to the dexterity of the hands and the ability to grasp and manipulate objects. Therefore, theory says, when you train with a pinch grip you are only training that specific width. Nov 2, 2024 · Your finger joints are the most frequently used joints in the body. Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. I'm debating between two methods: hangboard + weights vs arm lifts using a small edge with added weight. 5% to 190% body weight for 7-seconds on a 20 mm edge. 2 days ago · Explore the essential anatomy and function of finger joints, vital for your hand’s precision and everyday movement. Hangboards and no hang devices are the best substitutes for long periods of no climbing, 6 weeks is actually a great timeframe for a training cycle too! There are tons of protocols out there. I think the best board for your needs as you describe them would be moonboard 2016, tension or grasshopper. What are the fingers? The human finger is a flexible, long and thin extension of the hand commonly referred to as the digits. I like the idea of hypertrophy training using whatever you want, but the published data indicates that gripper training is at best tangentially beneficial to climbing. I’m 180cm, 77kg 7a lead outdoor. Please take note, I have seen plenty of climbers pop their pulley in their first 18-24 months climbing because they push their fingers too hard. Anecdotally, I have a buddy who can three finger drag 6 mil all daybut he sucks at Climbing multiple times a week does wonders for finger strength if you focus on working problems that require a lot of finger strength. In climbing, the fingers remain relatively static after grabbing a hold, so it’s best to train finger strength in the most common positions: What exercises worked best for you guys in developing a killer grip along with overall hand strength? I want to develop that touch of God!! Reddit's rock climbing training community. Have any of you tried both these methods? /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. The past couple of weeks that I've armwrestled I've felt a significant difference in my grip. The outcome was that I was able to gain absolute strength while losing weight at the same time, which caused my relative finger strength to skyrocket from 163. Finger strength I’ve been indoor climbing about once a week for 5 months now and seem to be struggling a lot with finger strength. Hello lovely people, Just wondering if anyone can give me advice on finger strength ?, I want to be able to do a pull ups on my door frame but the fingers are just far too weak : (, I've started implementing finger pushups and finger floor l sits into my routine but its been 3 weeks and I haven't noticed any considerable gains . The only answer is time and consistency, introduce finger boards when there’s no climbs available that are challenging your fingers strength, or you’re adding weight to max hangs (after minimum a year of solid climbing) You theoretically can finger board now and probably avoid injury, but the reward for risk is not worth it. I simply became quite "efficient" at these and I climbed half v3 and several v4 benchmarks on moonboard but my finger strength still stalled. And yes we are scared of falling. Find a problem in your gym that is particularly finger-y and work it regularly - you'll find improvements in strength but also in technique and body position as you learn how to make a difficult climb easier. Then my problem is, I cannot sustain at 4kg everyweek As to whether the gripper exercisers increase your grip strength, I think it depends on specificity, if you need a specific type of grip strength you would be better off with an exercise that matches the specific demands of your sport or job. Doing supplemental exercises won’t be AS effective for training as will simply bouldering more. The home of Climbing on reddit. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Sloper strength is one of the weirdest things to train. V5 bouldering My finger max is 10 kg add in 7 seconds. (And a lovely pastime) Grip strength for climbing is isometric so using the squeezy grip rod things has virtually no translation to crimpin' the proj. Not for finger strength but I find these kind of squeeze exercise things quite good for rehabbing on off days. The reason I like this is because despite their being merit to “just climbing” instead of training finger strength in isolation, I feel quite strongly a lot of new climbers at modern gyms will end up under training their fingers due to the heavy use of jugs and slopers. I think the idea is that if your forearms / finger strength is failing while bouldering, that means that bouldering is more than enough to gain strength in those regions. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Reddit's rock climbing training community. If you treated finger strength like lifting weights how would you organize training to reach a 140% bw hang, or change your training to reach 170% when basic progress slow? Or is treating half crimp strength as a lifting exercise a wrong approach? You'll train finger strength by climbing problems that are too difficult for you at the moment. Training your crushing grip strength as part of a well rounded hand/forearm prehab/strength protocol is great, training it as a substitute for climbing is not. In climbing, the fingers remain relatively static after grabbing a hold, so it’s best to train finger strength in the most common positions: Hello climbing community! I'm seeking your input on optimizing finger strength training. Here’s when to call your doctor about swollen fingers. For college student i already have enough expenses, but i have those containers that easily weigh 2+kg (food containers) if needed i can utilise those. I bought a 'GripMaster' from Amazon but it does not seem to be doing much as far as I can tell. EDIT: Wow lots of great ideas in here! Thanks everyone This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability. Why this protocol? Because it’s very time-effective and backed by science to maximize finger strength. Here is a link to the potential injuries that can come with "training" your fingers. You could do something similar to that last bonus challenge with them, but it would be much harder than a clothes pin. This is a Fakespot Reviews Analysis bot. Fingers are located on the distal part of the hand, extending from the palm. My wrists and hands are extremely thin and weak compared to the rest of my body (due to genetics). If you get those little kits with the 5 different kind of instruments they do a good job of lightly working out all those lower arm/hand parts Reply reply Basicallydirt • In theory, finger isometric strength depends heavily on joint angle. His testing data is still interesting and I might consider getting an uneven edge to train on. Training strength usually requires isotonic exercises like pull-ups that involve moving the joint through its range of motion, so muscles get stronger at every angle. Thanks! Reddit's rock climbing training community. So I recently picked up a set of pinch blocks, and after the initial excitement of converting my weak flesh mitts into hardened lobster claws subsided, I got to thinking: Are pinch blocks actually a good way to train pinch strength? Firstly, a pinch block is typically attached to a weight on a rope by an anchor point around which the pinch block has a high degree of freedom to rotate and or Kilter is great for contact strength and big moves, but not the best for the only method of finger training. Hangboarding will be better for training crimp strength than climbing. Feb 6, 2024 · Each finger comprises three small bones called phalanges, which give the finger its shape and strength. Hi guys, as the title asks, does anyone have any tips on how to improve my finger strength? I love climbing but my fingers ache so much after a few climbs. I would recommend doing a variety of finger strengthening exercises. Hey, I recently moved and decided to try to make a go at working out at home for strength and size. Learn about their anatomy, function, conditions, and treatment. The fingers are essential for grasping, manipulating objects, and performing fine motor tasks. I recently got turned onto using the tindeq and further more into trying out maximal concentric finger curls with a block… Are finger rolls actually training finger tendon strength or just grip strength? I’m not an expert and I’m not trying to be a dick but that exercise looks more like it trains forearm strength than it would finger strength for climbing specific movement (holding onto smaller edges for longer). If you identify a specific weakness, programing in 15 minutes to address that weakness 40 votes, 48 comments. Check it out! There have been a half dozen climbing specific studies that indicate grip trainer strength does not correlate to hangboard strength or to on-the-wall performance. Humans have five fingers on each hand and a significant feature in humans is the opposable thumb. r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. If you Mar 26, 2025 · Training strength usually requires isotonic exercises like pull-ups that involve moving the joint through its range of motion, so muscles get stronger at every angle. So yeah- 3 finger drag will help, but if you don't have the core/shoulders to press down on the slopers while moving your body around them in space it won't matter. Dec 31, 2024 · Fingers are classified as digits, with four fingers on each hand alongside an opposable thumb. All of your effort goes into maintaining a strict crimp, and that allows you to best overload the finger muscles that hold a crimp. It is usually recommended to start finger training after a year of climbing. Timestamps:0:00 Introduction1:20 Energy system lesson2:05 Hangboard8:58 Spray wall13:00 Campus board17:32 How to implement each method yourselfToday we're ta In humans, the fingers are flexibly articulated and opposable, serving as an important organ of tactile sensation and fine movements, which are crucial to the dexterity of the hands and the ability to grasp and manipulate objects. The fingers on the hands correspond to the toes of the feet. Hangboards don't need 10 different pocket combinations to work. I have follow the max hang protocol that now can do 4kg (90% max) for 10 sec 6 rep. How to improve finger strength. So much of sloper strength is core/shoulder strength, as well as open hand strength. The benefit is that you can probably do hundreds of reps with each finger versus trying something whack with weights that'll get you maybe 5-6 reps. Yet he makes no comments on training fatigue, periodization, progressive overload or how to fit these in a weekly training program that includes climbing. . Hangboarding is also the safest way to build hand strength because you can train progressively and measurably, starting with lighter weights and gradually building a base of strength over weeks/months. I still can't hold my weight on the doorframe although I Apr 6, 2020 · Follow this at-home, all-levels training routine recommended by Nelson to help maintain your climbing strength and keep you prepared for a return to the gym or crag. I have the luxury of being able to workout at work and have been working out consistently for the last 3-4 months but really seem to struggle with my finger strength. 25/M/currently going to gym 3 times a week. I juggled between volume frequency and intensity a lot and finally by surprise I see the finger strength increases steadily by using very low intensity and shorten the rest between attempts. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. Aside from that, a very cheap option is to buy a 3/4 in strip of wood, and nail/screw it onto another piece of wood (Porch rafter, over a door way, under the stairs, etc). I would imagining only hanging on to something would create finger strength imbalances. Hi all, I would like to ask about finger strength training which is my weakness and I really want to improve. Are there any way to do weight training and strength and conditioning at home, i don't have any equipments like dumbbell. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. Aug 14, 2010 · Learn the proper names of each finger and how to accurately describe the location of your hand pain using this practical example. Ofcourse you can strengthen your fingers. With these strength gains, I was able to improve from Moonboard 7A benchmark to 7B benchmark, and even send a 7B+ boulder. I added in the wrist curl as condition training also. Fakespot detects fake reviews, fake products and unreliable sellers using AI. That said, you still have room to focus more on techniques instead of strength. Most grip trainers are semi useless. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip videos/articles, etc. Know your hand anatomy! 4 days ago · Swollen fingers (dactylitis) can be caused by too much salt, heat, or a serious health condition. Here is the analysis for the Amazon product reviews: Name: Grip Strength Trainer,Gripster,Finger Strengthener-2PCS Hand Grip Strengthener,Grip Strength Trainer,6 Resistant Level Finger Exerciser & Hand Strengthener,Finger Flexion Extension Training (Black&Grey) Company You're probably better off using a rubber band or other device to work your finger extensors at work as consistent antagonist training. Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. All things being equal, finger strength IS important, but if you can't use the finger strength then it's more of a net negative and reinforces bad habits (muscling through climbs) which you will eventually have to unlearn. Shouldering, front squats, carries, high pulls. Binder clips are great for finger strength. The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. Has anyone trained wrist or forearm strength in particular and noticed useful carry over to improvements in climbing? Has anybody has success with training this longer term? I recently see increasing content online relating to isolated training of the wrists via forearm training inspired by forearm training tools and drills with the wrist wrench and heavy roller style exercises from the likes Specific exercises will newrly always beat out non specific exercises for the specific thing they train. I'm sure you could get a gripster and a stack of plates under your desk though. aka . FINGER meaning: 1 : one of the five long parts of the hand that are used for holding things; 2 : one of the four that are not the thumb. For upper body, my main lifts are 1. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. These names help when talking, counting, or showing actions. nnxeg sza rzct lhv bruev djfrd zvipt wrcg llab hgtl