Best ice axe for mountaineering reddit. 100% agree with this.
- Best ice axe for mountaineering reddit. Maybe there's glaciers to Mountaineering ice axes vs ice tool grades I'm looking to get into ice climbing but only have a straight shaft ice axe for mountaineering/ski touring. Jan 28, 2025 · Five gear nerds tested 31 ice climbing products, from carbon-fiber ice tools to top-of-the-line apparel. 79K subscribers in the alpinism community. Hey all, I’m looking to buy my boyfriend a backpack for ice climbing for his birthday. 2 days ago · Looking for reliable ice axes for your mountaineering adventures? Explore our top 15 picks to stay safe and prepared while climbing the toughest peaks. Main use cases I'm looking to use it for, is to self arrest in case of a slip in a steep chute and possibly traversing steep snow fields. I have the 44 and have taken it mountaineering (Scotland), alpine climbing, and ice climbing. At the end of the day your placements and footwork have much more of an impact then your equipment. Unless you are traveling on steep snowy terrain AND are trained how to use it for self arrest then no, I wouldn't buy one. The other week I'd like to purchase an avalanche/mountaineering shovel. First time buying an ice axe and I'm not sure which length to get. And, with their curved shafts, they lose some of their usefulness in alpine settings. May 15, 2024 · When selecting an ice axe for hiking, camping, or climbing, pay close attention to its weight as lightweight axes can lessen fatigue but may compromise on durability and strength. Any light axe is going to struggle when you have to swing it, dig with it, etc. I am tall/ skinny with large feet (size 14), which makes The old mountaineering axes are obviously still useful for self-arrest purposes. We have a couple of trips planned in the next year or so including a winter climb on Mt. Washington, Mt. They walk up bigger and steeper things that start needing more equipment and skills, eg ice axe, crampons and knowing how to use them. Ice axes work for mud and dirt too. May 1, 2025 · Explore the top ice axes for ice climbing, with expert recommendations on the best tools for performance, safety, and durability. r/Ultralight is the largest online Ultralight Backcountry Backpacking community! This sub is about overnight backcountry backpacking, with a focus on moving efficiently, packing light, generally aiming at a sub 10 pound base weight, and following LNT principles. g. So my question is, does anybody have experience using Nomics/Tech Machines/X-Dreams in alpine use and on low angle routes? You are going to buy new axes down the road anyway, because who doesn’t have multiple ice axes, locker full of boots, etc. the BD Raven or Petzl Summit. That is the reason you might have found articles on "how to sharpen your ice axe" or whatever. But for drytooling, something more technical definitely will help. I want to use them both on ice and mixed climbing in lower grades and also as single ice axe for skitouring, i prefer something lighter even at the cost of durability, since i wont be using them that many times in a sesons, alason something less curved and technical than nomics. Worst case, you can bring it to famous mountaineers’ social events and collect autographs on it, or leave by your bed as a, I don’t know, home defense weapon maybe? I would also do lot's of crag ice climbing before doing glacial ice climbing. They make better walking sticks for the approaches and low angled stuff. I currently have a Petzl Glacier for a general mountaineering axe. You can often find people selling tools that are basically new for 100 I have seen a ice axe self-arrest performed properly first hand and it likely saved a life on a mountaineering expedition. Would be willing to climb just about anything shy of vertical ice with it, and even short pitches of ice haven't been a problem. Good at nothing other than wearing many hats and softening the initial blow on one's wallet. So far i did a lot of hiking, ferratas (D) and easy climbing (UIAA 1-2, without rope) around 2500m in the austrian alps. first, its best to summit during late winter / early spring conditions. If you do things right, you would have plenty of other experiences and probably buy a second or even third ice axe by the time you're considering something like Denali. Would prefer a lightweight option, but not if there is too much strength tradeoff. Thanks for your suggestions everyone! :) Hello, I'm somewhat of a beginner. Second hand is just as good as new in this case, plus you won't stick out as a newb with a shiny new axe. For general mountaineering and not climbing steep ice, I'd just go with the black diamond raven. While the physical exertion is similar (it's actually less vertical feet of climbing to make the summit), walking on snow and ice is much harder than the ash on Kilimanjaro. I've searched extensively on Reddit and the internet about ice axes and found a variety of opinions. It's not enough to just read the instructions and watch some YouTube videos For something like straight up ice climbing a waterfall, I think leashes are accepted as a good idea. A snow shovel virgin - Needing a light weight snow shovel for limited use. Some days, all we need our axe to do is disappear in our pack, perhaps to come out in a steep or firm moment. After years of renting, I’m finally ready to purchase my own ice axe for summits in the area (Adams, Hood, Helens, Rainier). Hi reddit, My wife and I are avid hikers, but new to mountaineering. I'll see what happens on my trip this weekend. If you start climbing steep stuff, then look at the venom. We tested these packs all throughout North America, dragging them up summits in Reverse curve picks are designed for sustained climbing on steep ice. Hi all, I’m planning my first mountaineering trip for this summer and just beginning research, but I have many questions. Which option is best mostly depends on what attachments you want, the opening system you prefer and comfort. Here are the best ice axes for your next adventure. After buying 9 of the latest and greatest, our field testers hauled them into the mountains. In terms of mountaineering gear: ice axe, crampons, poles, and all the obvious like food, water, insulated warm clothes. E. It’s just a basic rundown of features and what to look for if you’re new to What have you used when they've lent you gear in the past? For general mountaineering I'd go with a very traditional style ice axe for your first one, like a BD Raven Pro or the like. You'll also have to learn to manage a rope, hold and use an ice ax, and work as a team. The screw anchor, in a nutshell, is basically a prussik attached to the side of the rope you pull down, and wrapped around the screw enough times to unscrew it as you pull. What range of mountains is easily accessible for you? Bluntly, how much money are you prepared to splash out? For many people, mountaineering is an extension of hiking. the standard approach is not very technical, but a lot of people get hurt on this mountain. Ice axes are not sophisticated tools. So, I would recommend the Falk or similar for climbs that are ~50 degrees or less and are likely to only require a single axe. Jan 17, 2024 · If you’re climbing or mountaineering, having the right tools is necessary for your success and safety. There's no reason to bring 2 sharp things to impale oneself otherwise (again IMO) or the weight. For ski mountaineering, you want a smaller, lightweight axe. The B/T rating system for shafts doesn't matter at all for ice climbing. What you see is what you get. Lenzspitz Northface, Lyskamm Nrothface etc. This isn’t meant to be a comprehensive review of individual ice axes or technique. Corcovado requires machete, ice tools and steel crampons with snow pickets for anchors, Torre Central del Paine requires friends and climbing shoes but Aconcagua just a walking axe and aluminum crampons. I have seen there is a wide variety of ice axes, mainly I assume I am interested in a more general purpose one such as the Petzl Summit or the BD Raven Grip. But for a walk up, I'd stick with a straight axe with no grip. Grivel/BD doesn't matter. AAI requires a hammered ice tool such as the Quark, but also a hybrid axe measuring between 50-59cm such as a Petzl Sum'Tec, Petzl Summit Evo (a bit less of a hybrid I guess), or the BD Venom. Probably looking for something in the 45-50 L ish range. Best ice tool/axe combo? Lost my stuff so looking for the best combo. but can you use it in situations like this and in summertime with no snow? thanks so much. And a classic straight ice axe will always be better for glacier travel and self arrest. Now, I want to start mountaineering, and for my beginner tours, I believe I need an ice axe. Makes plunging the axe easier as well. Hello all, My climbing partner and I have been discussing our crevasse rescue gear and what we should be taking up for a few trips we have planned. I am tall/ skinny with large feet (size 14), which makes Hi reddit, My wife and I are avid hikers, but new to mountaineering. If you're tall go for a longer one. I was wondering if you experienced folks ever used an Ice Tool instead of an Ice Axe for mountainering. So you are making a walking axe, most of the time with that thing it will either be on your backpack or you will just be carrying iz in your hand right? You wont be hammering into ice a lot with it so in my opinion the overall goal should be that the axe is as light as possible. I'm climbing Kautz with Alpine Ascents in June and wanted some advice on ice tools. Generally i'd say because of a mix of conditions, being well traveled glaciers, snow conditions (this year is particularly dry, already almost only ice on the glacier or very shallow snow layer) and other alternatives, being placing an ice axe in a t-slot and the other anchor being a crampon with a sling, a bottle, a backpack or an You don't really need a T rated ice axe for classic mountaineering, though it certainly wouldn't hurt. I'm 5' 2" and pretty light at 100 lbs. You need to stick the ice axe into the snow to do that while hiking, and you shouldn't be doing that with an ice climbing axe's handle. , one hybrid) I use for most of my technical outings anyways. The first 1/3 of the hike is on volcanic dirt until you reach the glacier. It is a holdover from when ice axes were made from wood and was designed to rate whether you could use the axe as an anchor. Most resources for ice axes focus on general mountaineering. This year i want to take a glacier training course and also do some winter hiking There is some overlap between technical axes (like the north machine or quark for example) and ice climbing, but if you'll still end up with something not good most of the time, having the right tool for the job makes a huge difference. 9/10 for ski objectives one can get a good 2 points of contact without a second tool or turning onto the toes. We'll be practicing lots of ice anchors, glacier travel, crevasse rescue, etc. 10 votes, 10 comments. , with a graduation climb - likely on Adams or Baker. However, I am on a bit of a budget and dont think I can afford any courses or We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I want a beginner mountaineering experience, crampons and ice axe, etc. Is this too short for general mountaineering? Edit: Went with the 55cm Black Diamond Pro. The reverse curve makes the pick easier to remove from hard ice. I'm currently looking at getting a new ice axe, right now I have the Petzl Summit. I don't want to scare you off from Cotopaxi, plenty of beginners climb it. I really stay away from ice for the most part, but may use it to get up a 5ft section of an ice slab/bulge, but generally not purely vertical. I reckon the best option would be stiff boots, crampon compatible and something like the petzl Sarken. Sleeping bag, puffy layers, food, all that stuff goes inside. . mt hood is a bit unlike the other cascade volcanos for a couple reasons. Those handles are made for holding on to and strapping leashes to, not shoving into ice. A few guides I've met have said leashes can do more harm than good (discouraging you from moving the axe from one hand to the other, etc. Im currently watching the descent and saw they have ice axes. Once you use that one for a while and maybe come into contact with a few other types by seeing your climbing partners' gear, you might start developing some preferences and opinions about the finer points of ice 100% agree with this. For versatility I go with the Petzl Summit. We’ve focused this guide on walking axes, with options to go a bit more technical later. Longer axes will facilitate descending and downclimbing. They have a pick, an adze and a handle. To follow on u/kungfulkoder 's response, sharpening ice axes is mostly if you're going to be climbing vertical ice with a technical ice tool. If you're not well trained, with some real practice under your belt, then you cannot rely on the technical gear to work correctly. With so many options available, choosing the best ice axe can be overwhelming. It's inspirational as well as instructive. In this guide, we’ll explore some of the top ice axes on the market, including their features and benefits, to help you make an informed decision. Useful if you have a second one and enjoy bruised knuckles. The important thing is size. Even with the add on features (fang, ), it's not as good as the new specialized tools for dry tooling. Not looking to do anything technical, just occasional steep snow or crevasse travel. this means that unlike a late summer Great ice tool for pure ice climbing. It It really depends what exactly you want to do and where you live. But, they will look like hell after a few uses, but might be worth it if the only other option is not being able to hike safely. Grivel ignored this rating completely when they made the Monsters. They're aluminium shafts with sharp bits on the end. More important than the brand name of the axe is buy Yvonn Chouinard's excellent book Climbing Ice. For the crampons, I am undecided on these (using petzl but can be similar of another brand) Vasak Sarken Lynx I would use them on easier stuff, but might eventually try steeper terrain - though very unlikely ice climbing for a few years, and if I reach that point, I can buy more technical Anyone have any adivce on what's a good length for an ice axe? 45cm, 50cm, 60cm+? I am looking at this one but read that the 45cm length makes a self arrest more difficult? I am looking for a lightwieght small ice axe for climbing in couliors. We were traveling across a glacier in 3 person rope teams. Most people aren’t doing sustained ice climbing on lines that they want to ski down. If you have a rubber handle) Can pair it with a single climbing axe (like a Quark) on the pitches too. Ice axes are essential for mountaineering, ice climbing, and glacier travel. Both have picks that are great for brittle ice, and the stock Mixte picks are almost too sharp - i can't imagine climbing the thinner ice picks in anything but the most brittle conditions. Non sketchy but would like a bit of a nicer hold while climbing - whippet Sketchy to point of needing one tool - ice axe Pretty sketchy with one tool - ice axe and whippet Two tools required - steep to near vertical ice Remember ice axe = boot crampons and a helmet. Favorite Ski-Mountaineering Ice Axe Looking at buying a ski mountaineering oriented ice axe after lugging my 60cm straight shaft ice axe around. But i'm on the hunt for somebody more hybrid, meaning something that can be used for glacier travel and technical mountaineering in the Alps. On other days, we may spend hours with one or two axes in use, perhaps climbing steps of ice or rock. As everyone starts to gear up for thru hikes and early season snow travel, I thought I’d write an overview on ice axes. I may be going doing some couloir climbing in Colorado this spring. Best if wearing stiff mountaineering boots and proper crampons designed to mount directly to the boot interface. Something challenging but not super technical or risky. There are many types of ice axes for a whole spectrum of winter activities – from ski touring and glacier walking, to good old exploring UK mountains in snow. We scrambled up remote alpine peaks, swung ice tools on steep waterfall ice, and set out for multi-week expeditions. What’s your favourite, or what features do you most appreciate? Thanks! Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Top New Controversial Old Q&A Alpineice23 • The quarks are pretty popular as an axe that can handle moderate ice, along with normal mountaineering. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. You can get by with your Vipers just about anywhere; but they're really in their element on pure waterfall ice. I haven't been impressed with the various attachments that hold the ice axe shaft to the pack; it looks like your pack doesn't even have them. 6'1 with long arms if that helps Thanks! Crampons, ice axes, and all other technical mountaineering gear require training in order to use them effectively. I also don't like the "all mountain" axes. But they're caving/ spelunking with no ice in sight. renting various gear items: boots, crampons, and ice axe are the biggest items. Mountaineering newbie here - I'm starting a mountaineering course this winter in the pacific northwest. I know that dirt and rocks will probably dull the ice axe. I’m from the Midwest so I dont get many hiking opportunities. That said, you probably want something sturdy and with a bit of a curve to it. this is because there is massive rockfall hazard in the summer that is protected by rime ice during winter conditions. Great all around ice axe, handles steeper terrain, and is quite comfortable paired with an ice tool when it gets too steep for an axe alone. It's also easier to glissade with a proper shaft/spike. At what grade does an ice axe become mandatory, like WI3? WI4? The answer to questions like this is basically always yes. If you've never owned an ice axe before maybe you should look into more conservative climbing goals first. You may not need the cramps but it'd suck to be without them if you did -- or I guess worst case you just have to stop until the sun warms up the ice enough -- there's not a whole lot of rockfall/icefall danger so that's not a problem. I know some would recommend just using two ice tools for something like this (and yes, I know that some of The original and primary use of an ice axe is for self arrest (stopping a fall). Feb 20, 2025 · Looking for the best mountaineering backpack? We break down the top 10 packs built for strength, stability, and the toughest climbs… It's best to take a formal class, as self arrest is only a small part of safe snow travel. I really started enjoying ice climbing a lot more after i went to a real ice tool. I want to get more into ice climbing and also alpine climbing on 50-60° ice/snow faces (e. Was thinking Petzl Sum'tech and trango raptor? Would love any reccos. Best one-stop Ice Axe for occasional ski mountaineering and everything else ski touring? One Ice axe vs. Googling online, there are different opinions and this link sums up some good pros/cons, and other situational things to think about. I've seen so many people misusing ice axes but I bet a lot of them can self arrest. If you can't climb ice with a mountaineering axe comfortably then the tools aren't going to make that much of a difference. Michael Covington is on the cover climbing Mt Kilimanjaro I believe. This will be my first year climbing volcanoes and just recently bought my crampons and ice axe. I would describe it more as a hike, you really don’t need an ice axe but they make you carry one. If you decide to do either a guided climb or a course, they will tell you what equipment you need and even rent you most of it (rope, harness, crampons, ice axe, helmet) so that you don't need to make a huge investment. Whatever long axe you can afford will serve you well. com Apr 28, 2025 · Explore the best mountaineering ice axes for different climbing styles, with tips on selecting the right axe for self-arrest, glacier travel, and technical climbs. We thought it would be fun to see what you all think is "essential" and made your crevasse rescue gear list. You can supplement that with a 2nd, more technical/hybrid tool later, which is the combo (one reg. I currently use a 50cm ice axe for ski mountaineering. See full list on outdoorgearlab. They provide support on steep slopes, help in self-arrest (stopping a fall), and are useful for cutting steps in snow or ice. And lastly, what gear you need will depend on the mountain, e. Is it common practice or do you absolutely recommend an ice axe for self arrest purpose? If an Ice Tool is fine, any recommendation on lenght compared to the usual anckle bone measure ? Thanks! IMO beginner mountaineers are too eager to get a second axe than use good technique with one. But this is obviously a vertical ice tool. ), while other climbers I've met swear by I want to buy my first crampons and ice axe, and obviously I want them to be as versatile as possible. This is to say that I will be using an ice axe for both climbing steep slopes and as a hiking pole. The ice axe goes at the bottom, the helmet will be wrapped inside a jacket, crampons in a crampon bag, sleeping bag in a compression sack, tent in a tent bag, etc. Here are some options I'm looking at: Blue Ice Hummingbird Ice Axe: Tried it before, liked it besides the price Hello everyone! I'm currently looking into getting my first ice axe that fits my future endeavours best. Purpose built gear will always be best. Start your journey today! Leashes: Yay or Nay? I have heard mixed opinions about having a leash on your ice axe (we're talking general mountaineering ice axes, not ice tools for ice climbing). I'm considering the Petzl Literide which is only 50 cm. I think most mountaineering packs would work week enough for backpacking, but ultralight packs won't necessarily work for mountaineering. Wear trail runners/approach shoes on the approach. The only downside is the lack of proper ice tool attachments, which gets annoying, but they're fine for axes. In the future I primarily plan to do most of the cascades volcanoes by the standard trade routes (Rainier DC, Adams, Baker, Glacier, Hood, maybe Olympus). Join us and ask yourself the question: Do I really need that? Apr 11, 2024 · The performance we seek from an ice axe varies widely depending on the day’s objective. That being said, hyperlite mountain gear comes has some packs designed for mountaineering. Good experience with crampons, ice axe, and glacier travel (crevasse rescue, anchor building). It'll be easier to walk with and easier to get used to as a first timer. Usually I'm doing couloirs of about 45 degree to maximum some 60 degree sections. Looking to improve technical skills, particularly above 50-degree ice climbing. For example the two thinks I don't really like on my Mammut are the roll top closure (I prefer drawstring with flap) and the ice axe attachment (I prefer tabs you put Bring ice axe for sure and crampons just in case. Exped, HMG and Blue Ice also have some cool options. I’m typically never winter climbing, and summiting during the March - Sept mountaineering season. Understanding Ice Axes Ice axes are versatile tools designed for ice climbing, mountaineering, and other alpine For ice axe, I use the CAMP Corsa Alpine for my ski mountaineering and am very happy with it. For the crampons, would a pair that are already on my snow boots work? Dec 5, 2023 · Our mountaineering experts have tested 30 of the best mountaineering backpacks over the last decade. Rope can go on over the top, skis A-Framed to the sides, tent on the back panel, etc. For example. Do I go for a crazy light option with limited reviews? Question I have some rather old mountaineering skills books that detail how to set up both a retrievable ice screw anchor and a retrievable axe anchor. Jan 29, 2015 · If I'm climbing something steep, I will sometimes bring my traditional axe and one ice tool because I still want all the advantages of a traditional axe on approach and low angle sections. I feel like everyone outgrows (technically speaking) there first Ice axe after there first mountaineering experience and wants something slightly more technical . I mean in the 90s people were climbing ice with straight shafted tools and sending hard nonetheless. What are some good, safe places to get familiar with their use in Washington state? I have used the different ice axes to illustrate features, not as a direct head-to-head between the ice axes in the video - eventhough that I at a couple of times give my personal view 😉 And keep in mind the video is for people, who would like to get into ice climbing and need basic advice on what to look for. These six came out on top. As a beginner, without any friends practicing this sport to give me advice, the first ice axe I bought was a Petzl Summit Evo of 59cm. When climbing or traversing steeper slopes, a shorter ice axe is easier to handle since you don't have to plunge the axe as deep and pull out 65cm of shaft then rinse and repeat. The ice axe stay on the ice axe loops and clips under the side compression straps of the pack. Some are applicable to hikers, some are not. Of course, if you end up buying 3 sets of axes instead of 2, maybe you don't save money. Hello all. Don't overthink tools. Rainier, and hopefully a trip to Ecuador. two ice axes Hey guys , For me it seems that if you climb with two axes on snowy,rocky sections you get more anchoring/holding opportunities?!especially on rock sections you can build anchors through the Ice axes to get a better hold ?! What do you think about it? But if you can do that it becomes a do-everything axe, until you need a reverse a pick, keeping you safe on gentle ground and far superior to longer axes on graded terrain (esp. The route requires both a general mountaineering ice axe and an ice tool, but having trouble thinking through which tool to grab. What kind of gear would be best, What kind of ice axe… Ice axes, poles, snowshoes, etc can go on the outside. But you'll be better off with auto crampons nonetheless. Which one would you recommend? I plan to use it mostly for building snow platforms/walls. My one suggestion is to cruise mountain project in the used/for sale forum. I'm 173 cm height (5'8 ) I soon realised this ice axe was too long for the routes I'm taking, and now I'm selling it and looking for an You'll always have a need for a good, general mountaineering axe, even if you get into more technical stuff later. I know there isn't the perfect allround model but i still have to start somewhere. I bring my second TOOL for legit water ice climbing, but that's it. You will have to make compromises somewhere if you want a pack that does both. We were debating the merits of buying vs. Here is our list for general glacier travel (per person): Obviously ice axe, crampons, harness ice screw x 1 picket x 1 belay device x 1 We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. ). Hey everyone, Going guided on Rainier next month via the Fuhrer (which is similar to the Kautz on grade & technicality from what I've gathered). cvtdz songt cuokkw qktgdra gqdzf uabcz mulf lvkibla vwc tkfvrh