Slab vs vertical climbing reddit. Asana has an Adult Climbing league, which is cool.

Slab vs vertical climbing reddit. Asana has an Adult Climbing league, which is cool.

Slab vs vertical climbing reddit. They said they don't work well on anything dead vertical that requires hard, tight edging. Styles can be so different too that rated grade and felt grade can feel quite off. 5/10. comfy, crazy good heel, pretty good at slab and micro edging, not incredible at smearing, but good enough for gym work, quite good at overhang, the rubber lasts forever, super long break-in period (like 50 hours or so of climbing), once broken in still very good at edging but much easier for smearing. e. Asana has an Adult Climbing league, which is cool. What would you call a slab that is less steep than vertical. Unique challenges of slab Many beginners find slab climbs Truth. On vertical walls, I regularly climb in the region of V5-V6. A subsection of slab is friction slab, which sounds like what you are talking about (again just my vocab for it). Yes, weight matters in climbing performance (especially hypertrophy outside of finger flexors and pulling muscles). Oct 24, 2023 · Slab vs. Sep 22, 2021 · Slab is generally the easiest of the three angles but that depends a lot on the holds and the protection. Outdoor 4. They seemed like decent shoes and I was hard stuck on v3-v4 for a long time so they were a huge step up from the rentals. It's difficult to go and check the ropes out in person so i'm hoping to get some advice here. The majority of people, though, even at a high level of climbing, are not nearly specialized enough to warrant not training a core climbing movement for fear of gaining mass. Which I wonder how accurate it is regarding what climbing offers. Good footwork is just an extension of good body positioning, as you need to know how and where you can place your feet to find that best body position. It just becomes too painful for my toes. I have only climbing in relatively hard shoes (Scarpa Vapor), but am looking to move into some softer shoes, to improve technique and foot strength. I feel like since I'm starting to work some 5. I can’t seem to find any articles breaking down the physics of shoes other than “downturned toe does hooks, flat shoe do slabs”. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. You'll probably be climbing much stronger on slab and slopers than on pinnches and overhangs ATM as they are rarer on toprope. These walls feature varying terrain, including steep overhangs, slabs, and vertical sections, as well as a range of wall heights Hi all! I have been climbing for 2. It depends heavily on the gym and setters. They’re okay for the type of smearing required on volumes and jugs on the indoor bouldering wall, but this shoe wasn’t made for less than vertical climbing outside. There are three main bouldering wall types: slab, vertical, and overhang. To nail those smears you want as much shoe surface touching the stone as possible, which means flat and soft. One major drawback for training boards that I see is that the training only really applies to steep climbing. I consider myself a fairly high level boulderer. up to a certain grade its just off vertical climbing. 5 miles / 1700' algonquin from lake colden - 2. 5 years and am currently climbing in women's Miura Lace Ups. Or you could run "Chisels & Bits" and create greater fine tuning of every pixel of a block. The pain went away a few minutes after the climb completely each time, which was okay my doc told me. My friends who have used both the no-edge shoes claim that they aren't particularly good unless you are on steep terrain. VS slabs should be objectively no easier or harder than steep VS routes. Mar 10, 2025 · The best climbing shoes just keep getting better. These were our favorites. I find that I'm climbing a couple grades lower on slab problems compared to overhanging ones. And beyond that, she isn't even focused on sportsclimbing. I can make a 5. A comment about the "drop the heels" rule: it works for friction slab or smedgy footholds, but if you're climbing "steep" slab (closer to vertical), this won't work as well because you're relying more on edging than pure friction. But for real you named most stiff bouldering shoe. Hardest slab is really hard, like this 14d. Any tips for getting better at a roof climb? Its a whole other monster than regular climbs I'm used to. 1 miles / 2300' the slab climbing on algonquin from that side is mostly above treeline so you can pick your line a little easier too. This implies that a vertical slab is a 90* wall. Specifically, on heel down I understand this and I know how to climb up to maybe low 5. 11 on slab walls, but then I have a ton of difficulty on some 5. Overhang rock climbing presents a unique set of challenges that are not solely dependent on sheer strength, but also on mastering body positioning and using the power of your core muscles. Some gyms I climb a grade or 2 harder on overhung. But shoring up those weaknesses is fun and rewarding. I'm wondering if the scarpa Drago would be a good first soft shoe, or if it would be too demanding on my toes and overall foot strength? Nov 4, 2023 · Slabs are often called technical, but climbers rarely say it about overhangs. Similar grades, just different styles, apart from a couple of obviously sandbagged routes (looking at you pink one in the corner). That's the point of the grading system. haystack from the south is steeper but it doesn't last as long. I climb much harder on overhung routes vs slab, and part of that discrepancy is down to my technique I believe - specifically footwork. I think it's cause on overhangs I'm usually falling straight down onto the mat, whereas in slab climbs I'm scared a foot will slip unexpectedly and I'll hit every hold and volume on the way down. I was reading Janja Garbret's Wikipedia page, and honestly came to question why climbing competitions separate the genders. Soft shoes on the other hand have less support, making standing on tiny foot chips much more difficult. Other Considerations How Many Pairs of Shoes Do You Need? Making a Shortlist How to Find the Right Fit Foot Shape and Size Ancestral Foot Types Introduction to Climbing Shoe Sizes How Tight Should Climbing Shoes Fit? Leather vs. For top roping / lead climbing Vertical world Seattle and Edgeworks Bellevue are my two favorites because the walls are pretty tall and the setting is really good. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I still use the same shoes I found comfy as a beginner although instincts are a bit better, they are so soft that vertical climbs and slabs can feel painful stepping on "pebble" type footholds so that's when I switch to miuras. Hey everyone. The type of shoe you want is more based on style of climbing and personal preferences. If you’re mostly climbing vertical/slab and the occasional overhang and want a soft shoe, solutions don’t really fit the bill as well as other shoes do. In the country I operate, we generally design floor as slabs considering oop loads. Unpopular opinion, if you are still learning techniques and climbing lower grades, get a cheaper pair (La sportiva Finale, or something) to climb on V2s and practice V5s and wear your solution comp when you are ready to send it. I really don't trust my feet. However, in American codes there are two separate sections for slab design and diaphragm design. com Mar 17, 2022 · For slabs, you’re essentially climbing a really, really steep hill. On heel up, toe down, I know how to climb technical climbing where I need to toe down on Observations from a fellow slab connoisseur: As a woman with good body awareness and balance, I found slab grades to be much easier than other wall angles at the lower to mid v grades. This is an incredibly long-winded full trip report, from trip planning to summit, if you don’t care about anything else, the route report itself starts at Part 3. I’d say some gyms I climb a grade or 2 harder on slab. Warming up and socializing past your rest times would extend the total time. Vertical world's bouldering is just okay imo. I was looking at the genius and decided that for the style of climbing I mostly do (vertical crimps on granite) that they weren't the right tool for the job. The home of Climbing on reddit. Have been climbing outside for a few years now and it's time to pony up and get my own gear. Indoors there are no small footholds and no long climbs most climbing you will do is either steep or on volumes so soft and downturned. I climb with heel down to gain more rubber-rock contact. Anything jumpy, shouldery, and steeply overhanging immediately knocks me down 3 V grades. I am Insanely aggressive and useless for any sort of vertical of slab climbing. Making static and dynamic climbing and either or is a mental trap. They're sensitive enough that you can feel little nubbins and get some purchase on them. V9 usually takes a few tries, i can knock out most 10s in a session or two. From the Wikipedia article linked to above: “slab - A relatively low-angle (significantly less than vertical) section of rock, usually with few large features. My local gym has one small slab wall and about 3 vertical walls that I would be able to train techniques on however some exercises that I've seen can help, e. I do some lead climbing, but the majority of my climbing is bouldering in the gym, due to convenience. Share Sort by: Best Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A Add a Comment MinecraftModBot • Upvote this comment if this is a good quality post that Feb 23, 2023 · Scrambling vs Climbing Scrambling and climbing are two activities that people do in the mountains. 1. I climb a little bit of everything, but I love slab, and end up spending probably 75 percent of my sessions on vertical or slab walls. After just climbing for two months I’ve progressed to v3. Because it’s so different from vertical or overhang terrain, it requires a different technique altogether that focuses on balance and friction. Honestly if you can consistently climb V5 on the moonboard it’s only a matter of time before you send a V5-6 outdoors, unless you’re just climbing slab or something! It's time that Mojang either tells the building community the real reason they won't complete the game's core mechanics, or simply fix this issue and add vertical slabs. One thing I've always wondered, what's the "gold standard" for higher end bouldering when it comes to shoes? I've always liked the softies because I can feel a lot more. From essential gear to top global locations, this article covers everything you need to navigate the world of less-than-vertical climbs with confidence I use these mostly for training days - kilterboard, 45 degree spray wall, etc. What’s slab? What does it mean to top-rope? (For a comprehensive, though not exhaustive list, see our glossary). While a 60* wall is less steep. But it's definitely not what limits beginner performance or something you should worry about at this point, especially for you with your low bf%. Requires slab climbing”. not sure how hard that gets but this v13 looks pretty much just friction, although video quality sucks Ive been climbing for a bit over a year now and i love slabs to the point where im a good 3 grades above on slab vs overhangs. Reply reply Priff • How about some old climbing boots, those got a steel shank. I feel that slab climbing has some good crossover to vertical and slightly overhanging climbing, any much less so when it starts to get really overhanging > 15°. Jun 12, 2025 · We put 23 pairs of climbing shoes to the test on boulder problems, sport climbs, and traditional routes. otherwise I use them outdoors in crimpy overhangs. Also surprisingly durable for a high performance shoe, lasted 8 months before I resoled them could have probably pushed it another month or 2. Some gyms have powerful overhung climbing setters who set pretty easy slabs. In the extreme, being taller/heavier will have the greatest advantage on low angle or slab climbs where you can maximally use your Jan 31, 2022 · Today, with so many climbers learning technique in a vertical-walled gym environment, slab climbing has become somewhat of a lost art. Mar 10, 2020 · The Slab Aficionado For those who are obsessed with friction-y, off-vertical routes, you want to look for a shoe with no downturn and a soft sole—slippers are often a great option for slab climbing. Unlike vertical or slab climbing, where friction and balance are primary concerns, overhangs present an entirely different set of challenges. The shoe edges super well. Bellevue has really good bouldering too but some of it is closed atm. If you are doing a wide range of climbing with one pair of shoes, professionals tend to prefer soft rubber because the negatives can be compensated by getting strong feet. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Slabs are rock faces that are angled at less than 90 degrees or less than vertical. It feels like I'm starting to plateau in my sport grade with a significant gap between vert and overhanging terrain. Cause that's what pistol squats are, a core movement for vertical and slab climbing. What are the bouldering wall types? Bouldering walls come in all shapes and sizes, and each type of wall presents unique challenges and opportunities for climbers to hone their skills. There's a decent deal on the mammut crag classic but i'm torn between the 9. I’m assuming this is from lots of steep climbing on small crimps/board sessions, etc? I’m more of a technical face and slab climber. I… does anyone know any affordable rock climbing gyms? Looking for I went to altitude gym but it was a bit too expensive. I used to sell climbing shoes and often people look for “beginner” or “intermediate” shoes. Mocs are also adequate for relatively low-angle friction slab. Jun 8, 2022 · Here are our six keys to master-class slab climbing. My climbing shoe is the la sportiva solutions, downsized a fair amount - but I don't think this stops me from climbing slab at the level I'm at (even if they What are the bouldering wall types? Bouldering walls come in all shapes and sizes, and each type of wall presents unique challenges and opportunities for climbers to hone their skills. Climbing shoe reviews (Tenaya Indalo, Iati, Butora Senegi and Gomi) I've been climbing indoors for roughly 1. They are the best in class for their use case, sure, but that’s not gym bouldering. Watch below. Share Add a Comment Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best New Controversial Old Q&A [deleted] • My current gym has a lot of variety (steep, vertical, slab, modern bouldering) Not focusing on comps for the moment, but really trying to push myself to harder routes Slabs require flexibility, good connective tissue health and skin. It could have a crack, making it easier to protect with trad gear, or it could be relative you featureless meaning it would be a bolted route or top-roped (or a I have climbed both places, currently a member at Vertical view. . I get by primarily with passable technique and footwork and okay finger strength, none of which I seem to be able to transfer to climbing on anything worse than a shallow overhang. In my experience climbing on a board seems very rough on my 6'1" body, even though I climb 2 vgrade lower at 40 degrees than 20. 11 climbs, I should be moving into some more aggressive shoes. The idea of the route is also based on a few constraints. Then just pick the shoe you Since I know most of climbing is technique (and have seen that for myself with my improvements on slab and vertical), I’m hoping there’s a similar “beginner” resource to make overhang feel a bit less strenuous by using better technique. Granite is a pretty broad range - are you climbing thin cracks? Slabs? On microedges? Granite boulders? For thin cracks I've always liked Mocs - easy to get a toe in and torque it. My main You want to lean towards softer rubber for slab climbing smearing and indoor climbing/standing on volumes, but you want harder rubber for tiny edges. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Its a preference thing. This is the smaller rock climbing community on reddit. 337 votes, 50 comments. We've all been waiting for 12 years now for a response. seconded. Look at Kevin and Tommy on the Dawn Wall. In reply to leeangell: because vs slabs are usually bumbbling between breaks. When discussing “how steep” a wall is, for instance, we have three general terms: slab, vertical, and overhang. 5 years and been through a few shoes so thought I'd write a review based on my experience in case it can help people in the future. Trust in the friction, move slowly, and step up. Once your weight is even with or above the sloper, use it as a mantel by pushing downward. I gym climb 2-3/week, primarily sport climb when outside (a variety of styles but not too much overhang at this point) and occasionally boulder outside. didn't use the original drone, but switched from the instinct VS, both with and without xs Mar 29, 2023 · Smearing Slab climbing in the Evolv Phantom is less than ideal. Mar 9, 2023 · Slab – Slab is the opposite of overhang, where the wall angles at a lean over 9 degrees. I’ve been climbing for about a year. The Instinct VS is relatively stiff, with XS Edge rubber that's more at home on very small footholds, primarily outdoors. A v3 slab should be harder than a v2 slab at X location just like the same should hold in the gym. In my opinion, the problems that arose from being heavier weren't weaknesses in my climbing, they were symptoms. For thin edges, you'll want a stiffer shoe. Anything stiffer like the Scarpa generator wont take overhangs to well. Climbing a slab requires a good sense of your feet and how to use them as well as balance and rock shoes with lots of friction. Looking for some tips on how to feel safer when climbing on slab. I can’t use them very well on vertical stuff because the toe talon thing is just too rigid for me to really make good use of in vertical or slab over extended periods of time. Archived post. 10 ish slab on various rock type maybe a grade lower on pure friction slab. Slabs and techy vert/face climbing may be an exception, but I don’t think it undermines the generality that climbing is more strength than skill (or, at least more like a 50/50 balance, but not more skill than strength). Instead of thinking about shoes like "sport" and "trad", I'd consider getting a shoe like the TC pro for edging/cracks, a softer shoe like the Skwama or Muira laces (there are many options here, my favorite for "slabs" or granite smearing are pink anasazis) for not edgy vertical routes, and then a downturned shoe for overhung routes/bouldering like the solutions. In the gym, I can usually flash all the slab problems while moving at half the speed of anyone else. Big moves on vertical to slightly overhanging with plenty of slopers feels like my style. In my climbing vocabulary slab is anything less than vertical, regardless of hold type. Vertical to slightly overhanging: Keep arms straight and hips low and sucked into the wall. They’re normally considered separate activities from regular hiking, which is when you walk along trails and only occasionally need to use your hands to pull yourself up over an obstacle. But if your heart is set on them, by all means go for it! Reply reply galacticpicnicbasket • I've (24m) been climbing for 5 years, almost exclusively sport climbing for 2. I can see some biased things, like critiquing rowing although assuming bad form. Now, I plan on getting them resoled because I really really love them for slab climbing and long multipitches when I need something comfortable. When you climb a slab, the general rule is that you keep your weight on your feet. no hand climbing, are straight up impossible because of the hold variety and angles. Learn how to master precise footwork, subtle body movements, and effective use of friction on tilted rock surfaces. My grade quickly plummets, however, when the wall becomes overhung. Discover the intricacies of slab climbing, a unique style that prioritizes finesse, balance, and technique over sheer strength. What Angle Is Slab Climbing? Slab climbing is technically any angle less than 90 degrees from horizontal. In contrast to overhung or steep vertical climbs where lots of upper body pulling is required, when slab climbing the climber needs to stand on their feet and utilize good slab climbing technique. vertical vs. For bouldering, taller lines with big moves and not too many tiny crimps. If you want to wear your shoes for hours or climb a lot of slab, no need to get something with a more aggressive So, I'm looking for a new climbing shoe to do some multi-pitch climbing on granite. In this article, we’ll learn all about indoor climbing walls and their angles. I tried the TC pros for a bit and just went back to a more aggressive shoe. Reply reply More replies hhhdhdddeee • Revolutionary Reply reply EnderMasterWin • Indeed Mister 🧐 Reply reply More replies DasGandlaf • Just imagine having to make like 2 stacks of cobblestone walls to vertical slabs, that would take ages Reply reply frguba • I'm pretty sure you can "copy" the specific block with the debug stats, I think the same way you grab a chest with items There's a mod for 1. 0, the comp, the LV, HV? Thanks in advance. But of course they have their disadvantages as you point out. I prefer aggressive shoes even on face or slab climbing, but it's way more of a comfort preference. Check /r/climbing for more content. Also, if you are new to climbing Vertical View has classes. Wood decks by their nature also provide some additional visual interest by adding some 3D vertical appeal missing from a very simple patio slab. She has climbed harder problems than most of the male athletes and seems to only go harder year after year. Apr 14, 2019 · Climbers find three basic types of rock faces and terrain when they are climbing—slabs, vertical faces, and overhanging walls. And yes we are scared of falling. I would like to understand the difference between the two and the conditions when these two designs are applied either together or independently or maybe separately. I could climb vertical routes, dihedrals and slabs up to 5. I could only ever do max v2s. I am Unless you're super tall then it seems maybe there are Morpho specialists who do well on high end boulders, probably vert and slab but who knows. Taking falls on run out slab (and how to catch as the belayer)? 30 votes, 17 comments. The solution is still my favorite sport climbing shoe that I have tried, precise and makes me feel confident on even the smallest feet. Are aggressive downturned shoes mandatory for hard bouldering? In all the old master of stone videos, everyone is climbing hard in those purple mythos. I've realized lately that I can climb significantly harder grades on a slab wall compared to overhangs. Choose the right climbing wall angle, from 10-degree slabs for beginners to 45-degree overhangs for pros, to enhance training effectiveness and enjoyment. I took a big-ish fall were my foot slipped unexpectedly and i scraped against the wall a lil bit. I am terrified of heights and get scared a lot on Honestly, if you’re gym climbing I would stick with a shoe that’s more moderate or neutral. meaning that all those incredible achievements are made whilst traveling around the world at competitions My hardest redpoints are what the kids would call "oldfashioned techy slabs", aka vertical to gently overhanging routes with footwork intensive cruxes. Most of the routes consist of slabs with some overhang sections, and the pitch grades range from Fr 5a to 7b. Curious of what technique this is and if someone can explain mechanically how it works. Some setters are really good at slab and therefore set really hard sandbagged slab problems. The protection for slab climbing is typically quite poor, with bolts spaced far apart or with few locations suitable for placing trad climbing gear. See full list on rockclimbingcentral. TC pro was designed FULL SNAKE DIKE/HALF DOME TRIP REPORT – SUMMIT 9/2/2022 – LONG READ The entire story is broken up into many replies to this thread, read as much as you want. Reply reply More repliesMore replies Sep 22, 2023 · Slab climbing refers to rock climbing where the angle of the wall is less than vertical. I think the main issue is that many people climb with their hips too square to the wall because it feels somewhat intuitive when moving vertically and many climbers start climbing on vertical terrain that doesn't necessarily require a lot of flagging, drop knees, or twisting. The different kinds of rocky terrain are formed from various types of rocks, including volcanic rocks like basalt; metamorphic rocks like quartzite; sedimentary rocks like sandstone, conglomerate, and limestone; and igneous rocks like granite and quartz monzonite. The Drago is the better shoe for your use case, but I hesitate to recommend them to beginners. For me it was a mental thing. Read, follow, and absorb them, and you may just learn to love climbing without holds. This reads more like a non-fiction story than a route guide, but oh Sep 29, 2023 · Slab climbing definition, in its simplest form, is rock climbing on a rock face that is lower than 90 degrees, sometimes making the route almost vertical, but other times on simpler routes that are closer to 180 degrees than 90. haystack from panther gorge junction - 1. 5 and the 9. Honestly if you can consistently climb V5 on the moonboard it’s only a matter of time before you send a V5-6 outdoors, unless you’re just climbing slab or something! Feb 23, 2023 · Scrambling vs Climbing Scrambling and climbing are two activities that people do in the mountains. The Crack Climber Apr 16, 2025 · He put 15 days into his pair, climbing mostly in Squamish and the Bugaboos and submitting his poor shoes to a wide range of gnarly granite slabs, techy vertical faces, stem corners, finger cracks, hand cracks, and slightly overhanging dykes. overhanging Crack climbing Hooking Gym vs. My lace-ups are deteriorating and I'm looking to upgrade now but to a shoe with a similar fit and stiffness. 8. However it seems most of the folks pushing high double digits generally trend toward stiffer shoes The climbing hours only include climbing at your intensity and the rests between those climbs. Could it be a mental block? I started climbing in 2019, climbed for a year, pandemic hit, stopped climbing when gyms closed. Synthetic Final Thoughts: Go Easy! References I'm a v3-4 climber. Ascending up less-than-vertical rock faces requires intricate balance, footwork, and complete control of body movements. I’ve been climbing for about 1 1/2 - 2 years and have started to climb around the V6-7 range (in gym). But usually flat and stiff shoes are only good on vertical and slabby terrain where you stand on small footholds or if you need the support for long climbing. in slabs my footwork is good enough (due to climbing a loot of slabs in my youth and climbing in the slick swabian jura). Nowadays, I'm climbing with La Sportiva Katana velcro, and I kinda like it. What is this muscle that seems to be so overdeveloped in pro climbers? Is it the teres major? I’m curious because I’ve developed a pretty muscular back from climbing and training, but this muscle isn’t particularly prominent. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Climb more things that seem harder and you'll become more well rounded and find this stuff equally easy. Read on for our 2025 picks from La Sportiva, Scarpa, and more! Improving with overhangs I've been climbing regularly for a bit over a year, with the majority of my climbing hours having been spent on an indoor bouldering wall. Jul 7, 2023 · Angle Slabs: Think about holding your body in place while moving your feet up. where as vs cracks or steeper stuff will require some climbing. 10as. Is it justified and which rock angle is really harder to master? 490 votes, 96 comments. My thinking is that, if this is true, then comfortable shoes and slab shoes share some significant overlap. Anything with 5 or so degrees off of 90 has more in common with vertical climbs but would still count as slab. On the wall left of Dawes' legendary Quarryman in the Llanberis slate quarries - imagine the famous groove sequence from , but without the groove. Jan 19, 2023 · Lead Climbing Walls An indoor lead climbing wall is a specialized structure within climbing gyms tailored for lead climbing, a style of rock climbing where the climber ascends with a rope, periodically clipping it into quickdraws, protection points, as they ascend. The last couple months I made some break throughs and I’ve been working on v4-v6 now regularly and have been completing them. However any given climber may find them easier or more difficult depending on the style of route they're used to. I also have read that a softer, flatter shoe is good for smeary slab routes, where I found my miura vs and new solutions were slipping (I actually had better luck with some old finales with blown out toes). But that might just be me idk. I try to keep doing both, but that has meant switching up my game this year to try to get more consistency in my training. What grade the route must be in (my gym has a distribution of different grades of routes), what holds there are to build with, what the wall is like (slab, vertical or overhang), how long is the route, is it used for lead etc. Asana has more bouldering available but no top rope, so if you want that you should hit up Vertical View. Yesterday I went to REI and got myself a pair of Women's Scarpa Vapor Vs. Also consider what you typically climb. Outside slab shuts me As per title, I'm awful at climbing anything on an overhang (V4-6 on slab/vert, V3-4 on overhang). Hey all, just picked up a pair of mad rock drone cs and thought I’d share my initial impressions after my first session. Context - I've been climbing for 5 years, at anything between V5 to V7 (indoor) depending on style. I've loved them for everything. Of course the power and strength can still improve your lower angle abilities, but why aren't there boards at vertical/slab angles to be able to train that style in the same way? Is there practical reasons or Dec 5, 2022 · The age-old debate! Most climbers will have a preference for climbing wall angle but it's important to climb both to become a good all-round climber 🧗 Head Slab refers to both a type of wall, generally speaking a wall of less than 90 degrees, and the type of climbing you generally have on it. I feel it has a comfortable fit, and I trust my foot on smearing and small I’ve been climbing for about 9 months and I bought my first pair of shoes 2 months into climbing and went with the Skarpa Origins. Head coach at TCH London, Cris, gives his super quick tips on how to best climb different wall angles. Finally rediscovered climbing recently in dec 2023. They lasted me 3 New route by Yorkshire slab master Franco Cookson, possibly/probably the hardest slab route in the world? Superdirect version of The Meltdown (9a), an old Dawes project from the 80s FA'd by James MacHaffie in 2013. Aug 19, 2024 · Anthony mainly tested in Squamish (on thin cracks/seams, a roof hand crack, brief offwidth, steep slabs, and stem corners), three days of vertical gneiss face climbing, and two days of overhanging quartzite face climbing. 9 called "Building Bricks" which has vertical slabs for everything, as well as stairs, regular slabs and walls. When Did Climbing For those of you that have tried the MADROCK Drone series, which one do you like the best? The 2. Climbing Slab v Overhang The age-old debate! Most climbers will have a preference for climbing wall angle but it's important to climb both to become a good all-round climber. Since i don't really have a climbing shop in the neighbourhood. My theory: women tend to feel more competent on slab/vert when they start climbing because this style requires skills that are more applicable to sports and activities young girls are encouraged to do (dance Ceiling/roof climbing--easier, harder, the same as vertical climbing? The grading is numerically the same, obviously, but is a V1 on the ceiling the same difficulty as a V1 on the wall? Climbing on the ceiling has been phenomenal for my core strength and confidence, as well as foot technique, but I have no idea how it's all going to grade out! Reddit's rock climbing training community. Would this be a 110* wall? What about a steep hill or even a gentle slope? How do hikers refer to gradient of slope? Is it the opposite to climbers? Wouldn't it make sense for flat ground to be 0*, a steep And since I have used mostly stiff shoes for all my climbing, even on tenuous slabs, I feel like I’ve trained myself to trust my feet even with less sensitivity. If you are going to be doing face climbing and overhanging climbing and any big wall or crack climbing the miura will do the job perfectly. I Aug 11, 2022 · Climbing, like many sports, is full of its jargon. Thank you. For example, I can climb a v5 on slab, but I struggle with some V1s and v2s on overhanging routes and even some vertical ones. I’m wondering more about how shape of the shoe affects your climbing technique- what toe shape is better for smearing vs edging vs toe hook. Couldn't find that same level of confidence in a more moderate shoe. In climbing, a 45* wall is an overhanging wall. I’ve typically going with neutral shoes (although I did have a pair of Evolv Kronos. When you find the slab outside with nothing to stand on and credit cards for holds whether you want to climb dynamic or static will be meaningless if you want to send - there will only be one option. Overhangs require a well maintained muscle set without imbalance or overlooked minor groups and possibly a greater amount of fast twitch maintenance. Once your core sags, you will lose opposition and be forced to rely on pure finger Jun 8, 2022 · Here are our six keys to master-class slab climbing. 10c with only little pain (2-3 on a scale from 1-10) around the injured area. I. i think that's a really important fact and i struggle a lot with it. g. But anyhow, a main claim that I wonder how true it is, is about vertical climbing offering a "fluid, safe lumbar spine and pelvis motion that minimizes compression to the spine". I'm just curious why there aren't really training boards for slab climbing. This is Nov 17, 2023 · The shoe that's best for you depends on your body type, climbing style, the type of rock you climb on, and how much you want to spend. You will not be disappointed with either. Nov 1, 2022 · @joshua, if it’s vertical it’s not a slab. Solution: (41) Terrible, terrible break in period but a very solid shoe afterwards. But footwork is the foundation of all technique, and confidence in smearing establishes your connectivity to the rock, even on steeper routes. With minimal climbing (gyms closed for 6 months of the year) I've gone from flashing V3 and maybe 50% of V4 being doable, to flashing all V4 and some V5, and projecting the rest of the V5s. Kinda depends. Eight weeks post-injury:, I tried some indoor lead climbing. Most “shoe advice” focuses on aggressive vs non aggressive and fit. This is the case at the gyms I've Solution comp is the best all rounded bouldering shoes in my mind, while the theory is excellent for slab smearing. ryfpzi adoe rdwg fkymc veum mcat sfieikws efxbgez dqluxy gwajm