Finger strength climbing reddit. Just be patient, keep climbing and you will get stronger.

Finger strength climbing reddit. The blurb Reddit's rock climbing training community. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. 64 votes, 17 comments. I was a rock climbing for 5 years and while my grip was better than average, I wasn’t spectacular at holding onto deadlifts. e. 5 years, am 5’ 8. So I plugged my result into the thingy, and apparently I've got the average finger strength of a V11 climber and the theoretical strength necessary to climb 8c (5. Somewhat new to climbing but when I watch videos demonstrating good technique, the climber smoothly moves like water between… Reddit's rock climbing training community. This is a list of 12 great training exercises that come from training books, interviews with professional climbers, social media, Reddit and some of my climbing friends. The strength will come. Edit: someone asked this and they confirmed it’s the my fingers data. Here's my current training plan for May-September when I can climb outside regularly. Unfortunately, the only advice I’ve found is that to build this, you have to continue climbing. In Overcoming Gravity, Steven Low suggests that (specifically for bodyweight training Does the GRIPMASTER pro hands tool work well in developing finger strength or is it more of a gimmick and could possibly injure my fingers. Non-Fixated strength testing is the opposite. From what I've read, it's way too early (in terms of time spent climbing and grade) for me to start hangboarding. Sun: Projecting boulders outdoors (mostly on crimpy steep limestone) Mon: ARCing (2x 20 mins climbing, 10-20 degrees overhanging, keeping pump below 6/10) & Core What exercises worked best for you guys in developing a killer grip along with overall hand strength? I want to develop that touch of God!! You're stronger than most people I know who boulder v10. 14b) sport. While its possible finger pull ups aren't appropriate for you depending on your current finger strength and climbing experience, they are in no way pointless or reckless. Nov 21, 2022 · Everyone wants strong fingers, but not everyone understands just how to do it right. You can't cheat recovery time. Of course holding a tough crimp requires a lot of forearm activation but more likely you are more limited by what your fingers can support. Interesting topic. See threads on these two topics, as they come up an awful lot. Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip Reddit's rock climbing training community. You automatically train your finger strength, power, strength, contact strength, core, dynamic moves, and especially try hard on every single move right from the first move. Not a very exciting answer, I know, but just be patient. The first is kind of pushing strength of the fingers and what arm wrestlers train for a lot, the latter is your "normal" grip strength. I have the luxury of being able to workout at work and have been working out consistently for the last 3-4 months but really seem to struggle with my finger strength. Jan 5, 2022 · Tools Climbing Finger Strength Analyzer The Finger Strength Analyzer will allow you to see how strong your fingers are. Have any of you tried both these methods? I'd appreciate your experiences, insights, and any There is *some* overlap between grip training and finger training (climbing-specific) but, if you're looking to improve your ability to pull down on small holds, spring loaded grip training tools are likely a waste of your time/capacity to recover. If using any sort of assistance placed to the side and gripped with the non-hanging arm (pulley, band, cord), then the rotational component is mostly eliminated. trueHey all — new caliber here. Grippers are not the best way to directly increase grip strength for the deadlift. I've been climbing pretty regularly since 2013, but as soon as I started to reach into the 12's 2 years ago and project harder routes for me, I've been experiencing lots of finger injuries. Given I once submitted 4 entries in 5 minutes to figure out what grade my finger strength was enough for I really don’t trust the data at all. Muscles in the forearms contract the fingers, so "finger strength" is "forearm strength". If you In climbing, however, you need excess strength primarily in your forearms, as hand strength is often the weakest link. Hello climbing community! I'm seeking your input on optimizing finger strength training. I have incredibly weak fingers that I’m looking to strengthen. The tool's initial version was based solely on the results of the maxtograde survey, but the accuracy was not satisfactory. Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. 5 pounds) with a body weight of 67kg (147. I get pooped out super quick. I’d agree that finger strength is probably the single most important thing in climbing and thus is the best measurable trait to correlate with climbing ability, but I think it’s important to bring up the fact that there are a thousand other factors that affect what grade you climb. I have a good back and pulling strength but lack of grip strength is holding me back. I've been looking at a lot of the medical literature on climbing and injuries and haven't found many that look at finger strength. You've got some misconceptions about the anatomy of the fingers and forearm for one thing. Some of the training exercises require rock-climbing grip training equipment or other exercise tools but most of them can be found in your local climbing gym or inexpensively online. It's not to say just climbing won't improve your finger strength, steep crimpy board style climbing in particular will certainly give you strong fingers, however it's hard to maintain the correct progressive stimulus for continued finger Max hangs on a 14-20mm edge. Around 8:54 he shows an exercise to build three-finger drag flexion (scalable with feet on the ground) I'm curious about what others think about this. I have found that, while hangboarding has a risk of injury, it has increased my finger strength and reduced my amount of climbing-related finger injuries. I’m a newbie climber. The home of Climbing on reddit. You just can't hit the same amount of weight with a crush that you can hit with a static hold. Eventually over time the tendon strength will build to a level where it’s safe to use hang boards to improve finger strength. Climb V3-V5 indoors (V4-V5 on Vert/Slab/sloper/burley climbs or basically anything that doesn’t require true finger strength, V3 on any significant incline/overhang). As much as people hate to hear it, when it comes to grip strength in the early years of climbing, climbing is the best training for climbing. Dedicated to increasing all our… Reddit's rock climbing training community. . One finger monos and front levers are extremely impressive, but mean basically jack shit when trying to make the jump from 9b to 9c. If you start on an easy hangboarding regime and take appropriate recovery time, you might find the same effects. Strength, power, flexibility, fitness, technique, mental game, try hard, conditions, style of the climb, etc This. As this is 100% right i have focused on improving technique in the past year and made a lot of gains there but here comes the question. I rarely hangboard but have decided this lockdown to work on my pinky and ring finger strength by using bodyweight hangs. If your tendons are getting stressed enough from regular climbing, adding in more finger strength work is pointless at best and injurious at worst. Here’s a video about how they are done. And right now you're a beginner at all of them, so it makes sense to "just climb" where you can work all of those facets. At one point last year, I had 3 finger injuries at once. D ynamometry is used for the finger flexors Reddit's rock climbing training community. Finger strength training is not recommended without climbing 2x or more a week for a year due to the historical use of hangboards at body weight load. Reply reply I recently just started to be able to hang with a half crimp on a 20mm edge, but I don't think this routine is responsible for my finger strength gains, but it has allowed me to feel better on my climbing days to pull harder. Reddit's rock climbing training community. One, Two, Three. I need some advice, or perspective here! Improving finger strength is definitely the end-game for climbing harder, and if you're going to start down that path, really commit to it. If someone asks me specifically how to improve their grip for bjj, telling them to deadlift is bad advice. 10 votes, 43 comments. A hang board allows for a well structured workout, practical climbing grips, and allow for more weight. Grip strength is specific to the hand position. Seems like there are a ton of different hangboard workouts out there and I'm not sure which exactly fit into what I'm training for. Around 14:23 he shows a mind-boggling feat of strength by hanging one-handed three-finger drag on a beastmaker 2000 middle edge and can even flex his hand under that load. Here's the thing though, I've never climbed more than like 6b+ (5. When I try to move to 5. As someone who has a gym background you might want to make sure you're not solving your problems with just strength. 11 hump? Maybe I'm starting bouldering in the local climbing hangar next week and hoping this will help in both relative bodyweight strength and finger strength, Cheers Peeps, As to whether the gripper exercisers increase your grip strength, I think it depends on specificity, if you need a specific type of grip strength you would be better off with an exercise that matches the specific demands of your sport or job. If you don't progress with some scheme described above you are either super strong already or you should think about fixing your climbing training on wall because thats where 90% of your training load shall happen. Recently got into rock climbing. Every video I've watched on finger strength assessment has subjects hanging on 20mm edges with various amounts of added weight or lengths of time. Anecdotal, but: I weight trained for years before climbing (lots of wrist curls as well because I had little baby wrists naturally). A few months ago I started using a tension block to measure my strength in various hand positions. I generally climb v5, 11b-11c outside and I can only pull 40-45lbs for 10 reps and it feels like it's working my climbing muscles a lot harder than doing deadlifts with the tension block with 90-100lbs. That said, you still have room to focus more on techniques instead of strength. ex shoulder stability or just technique under the fingerboard. Basically, at the moment I'm just cutting my climbing down to extremely low volume, trying to maintain my strength, and do more open hand and finger roll stuff with full range of motion exercises to resolve it. You really don't want a finger injury in your first few months of climbing. here) I find this quite surprising because for me, my index fingers are significantly stronger than either middle or ring Despite this I perceived my strength climbing on edges, esp smaller positive edges, but now edging in to V10 I feel it may be a limiting factor (of course it's problem specific but let's say generally for fingers problems). The thing is, fingertip pushups work your finger strength for, well, pushing, while the finger strength you use for climbing is pulling finger strength, so I wouldn’t recommend fingertip push-ups for climbing finger strength We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. Thanks for this, inspired me to swap from barbell finger rolls to tension block finger curls on a lat pull down machine. 5. Omar is another guy who probably has 8C boulder strength but only climbs around 8A+ish. May 7, 2024 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Hangboarding is both pretty similar and pretty different from lifting weights. In the description it seems so, which isn't the same data in their assessment model from what I gather. It has been shown to reduce injury risk by exposing the fingers to supramaximal loads in a controlled environment and to improve performance by allowing you to climb harder and more frequently 1. Since bouldering is quite expensive, I can only afford to the climbing gym Reddit's rock climbing training community. I'm at V5-6 and just consider finger now to try to break into V7. Dedicated to increasing all our… Climb outside a lot and you're guaranteed to improve almost all aspects of your climbing, even pure finger strength (depending on what type of climbing you're doing). 11s, it seems that I need to focus more on grip strength and leg movement/hip balance. I suggest you go back and re-read both the Base Fitness and Strength sections of the RCTM. Physiologically, my fingers seem to have adapted to the Goals: Improve Finger strength, improve on my session fitness, i. Hey Guys and Gals, I have been climbing for about 2 months now (just at the climbing gym) and have hit my natural limit at 5. Any decent training book (Horst, Neumann, Hague) will have recommendations for finger strength exercises that actually work, but almost all of them require a hangboard or a climbing wall. I need to work on finger strength more and i was going to try out going to do finger curls at is it an effective method to build finger strength? Reddit's rock climbing training community. Being a strong climber isn't a mathematical formulation of max_pull_up + max_hang. 5” tall, and currently weigh 195lbs. Do this after a thorough warm-up twice a week. So I analyzed the input data sets that lead to errors, and based on the Reddit's rock climbing training community. I’ve been climbing for about a month now, and I want do everything in my power to get better. The crimp, depending on how exactly you do it mainly uses your Flexor Digitorum Profundus. No hangboarding or campus boarding. which is +37. Just be patient, keep climbing and you will get stronger. Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. Yah, this is wrong. I don't think anyone follows a program with the specific purpose of strengthening the tendons in your hand, and I don't think it makes sense to do so. 173K subscribers in the climbharder community. Grip type is extremely nuanced in actual climbing, while on hangboarding it is relatively one-dimensional. How to know when finger strength is holding us back? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options came_to_post_this • Mar 10, 2023 · For the psyched climber climbing in that V5 to V8 range, you can only safely add finger stress if you correspondly decrease your total climbing volume. Because sloper strength is so complex- compared to crimp strength at least- I personally just like climbing a lot of sloper climbs to improve. It drove me nuts too when I first started, but for now, your best idea is just to climb more. If you really want to see progress on the fingerboard, maybe some weeks of light training with it will make you able to hang with more weight. It is usually recommended to start finger training after a year of climbing. Use them as a secondary/assistance exercise. For example for slab climbing body strength usually matters very little. 1 day = board climbing at your limit. I use both, but as for finger strength, all my gains have been from hang board sessions. I don't really relate my hangboard numbers to my climbing, except in that I simply use it to rehab or improve finger strength. For very small edges (6-8mm) does skin tension/finger shape matter more than strength? I've been climbing for 20+ years, but until recently I've never tested or trained my finger strength with any rigor. While the pinch uses your thumb muscles, it uses a different finger muscle, the Lumbricals. I’ve found that my biggest weakness right now is my forearm strength. 11- sport climbing level in Colorado. How much time does a mild finger tendon injury need to heal while “at rest”? Can low-grade climbing help encourage my finger to heal faster? What back or pull exercises can I do instead of pull-ups/toes-to-bar to continue strength training for climbing? Can finger rolls be beneficial with a hurt finger or do I risk injuring further? (first post on Reddit ever so be kind :D) I notice a lot of climbers default to their middle finger for mono pockets, and even read some forums wherein the general consensus seemed to be that the middle finger is the strongest, followed by ring finger, then index???!! (eg. And yes we are scared of falling. e the amount of good attempts in a session and my recovery between sessions. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. I was rather surprised, and somewhat dismayed, to find that my fingers are apparently incredibly weak. Add or subtract as much weight as needed so that you can hang at least 6 seconds, but fail before 12 seconds. When bouldering it can be quite obvious, I agreed that it could be harder on sport climbs. /r/GripTraining is a resource for anyone wanting stronger hands, bigger forearms, or to compete in the sport of grip. I've set some lofty goals for myself by the end of the year, which quarantine has made it tough to realistically meet, so I invested in IMO, try to understand if, when you're climbing, finger strength is holding you back. Hand grippers do not build tendon strength or neurological at all. I'm debating between two methods: hangboard + weights vs arm lifts using a small edge with added weight. From what I've seen of weightlifting things, the general consensus is that low intensity, high reps is better for tendon strength. Built a little routine to train it, want some critique. I have around 140% max hang on 20mm edge in half crimp position with all fingers on the edge but I feel there is no way in hell my back 3 fingers could hold anywhere near that, whereas my front three could easily get close. This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability. Holds in real climbing are very complex, and the forces you apply on them are even more complex. I haven't had anything serious, but experience pain in different parts of my fingers. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Is this something that’ll naturally improve as I progress or is there something I should be doing to target it? Apr 7, 2024 · Introduction to Arm-Lifting finger strength training Finger strength training is essential if you want to improve your climbing. Finger strength or general climbing ability/skill seem like the most probable culprits. Your view around weight loss for climbing are not based in reality and insanely unhealthy. My fingers were strong as fuck though. 28 votes, 75 comments. Obviously, early on you want to take it easy because you haven't built up the foundation strength, but even pros hurt tendons. Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. I find I have to sacrifice some level of climbing when I hangboard, similar to what OP mentioned, and I’m not a huge fan of that. Avoid the finger strength training for now, injuries are your worst nightmare and will set you back more than anything. Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. Apparently the 20mm edge size is a good baseline standard for measuring finger strength. 11. 5kg (82. Hangboards and no hang devices are the best substitutes for long periods of no climbing, 6 weeks is actually a great timeframe for a training cycle too! There are tons of protocols out Around about your grade I reached an impasse where finger strength was the limiting factor, I started hangboarding and it made a massive difference to me. My compression is still like 3 grades better than anything else if it's an exclusively compression route like a corner. Are finger rolls actually training finger tendon strength or just grip strength? I’m not an expert and I’m not trying to be a dick but that exercise looks more like it trains forearm strength than it would finger strength for climbing specific movement (holding onto smaller edges for longer). Use our weekly Q&A posts for your questions, routines, exercises, reviews of equipment you use, grip accomplishments, technique/training tips, grip sport news, grip I did a short cycle this year with recruitment pulls as outlined by Tyler, FWIW I hit my personal best on finger strength after this cycle after a pretty long layoff from consistent climbing and training (~18months). Can anyone give me some tips that helped them get over the 5. If they exist, what is typical for say grades V6 -V11/12? Mar 23, 2023 · Learn Dr. 232 votes, 68 comments. you stop climbing set boulders and, instead of starting to fingerboard Anecdotally, I have a buddy who can three finger drag 6 mil all daybut he sucks at slopers because his shoulders are weak. You almost certainly have a lot of technique, footwork, movement that will improve with climbing and it’s not solely finger strength holding you back. I’ve always had super strong pinch strength due to hand morphology and the only way I increased it was focusing on board climbing on shallow narrow, shallow wide, deep narrow, and deep wide pinches all separately. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Your fingers are all tendons and it takes a long time to build tendon strength, so the advice I got was to keep climbing but once they hurt, stop climbing crimpy routes for the day. 11a) sport grade outside and 7a+ (5. I find a lot of value from drilling movement over building isolated finger strength Reply reply spearit • Reply reply More Reddit's rock climbing training community. The main way of holding on in rock climbing in crimping which is less about finger strength and more about grip technique. Your hand would explode. I said I’d try them out because I like to see if certain things work for me or not like my iontophoresis and antihydral experiments for dry fingers. If you are moderately new to climbing and your finger-, pull- and body strengths are equally good or bad. That said, I still struggle immensely with smaller, thinner holds. But ARC is way to far down that line, 30 Over the year and a half I've been climbing I've gone from my powerlifting weight of 180 to a much more mobile and athletic 170 while gaining tons of finger strength from "just climbing" and some low volume hangboard and moonboarding. 3 days a week max? Here's how you want to do it. The resiliency of tendon structures in the fingers contribute a lot to grip strength. Slopers as you mentioned I'm still bottlenecked by finger strength. r/griptraining is a super knowledgable community and has a section in the sidebar specifically addressing grip training for climbing. There are two types of finger strength: flat finger strength and curved finger strength. How do you train specifically for sloper holds? I'm climbing in the 11a range but when it comes to big slopes I can't do much. I've only been climbing for about a year and am climbing outdoors at a V3 bouldering and 5. A huge uncertainty is how “accurately” the boulders in your area are graded and what type of boulders you are climbing. Climbing finger strength is not the same as hangboard strength. Train on climbing days so you can rest your hands at least one day after. To put it simply: Ondra is elite in all aspects of rock climbing, Magnus is elite in strength-associated metrics related to climbing. For crimps I worked on finger strength, for slopes should I practice palming basketballs? I recently listen to a podcast with Dan Varian, a mentor of Aidan Roberts and co-founder of Beastmaker, talking about the outcome of different types of grips on the strength of the individual fingers in relation to their position (flexed in dip or open) and how this is often reflected in climbing styles. : r/bodyweightfitness     Go to bodyweightfitness r/bodyweightfitness r/bodyweightfitness Pinch strength and crimp strength are somewhat related but mainly use different muscles to achieve the goal of holding on to the hold and not falling off. The basic idea is that a climber's bouldering level is correlated with their finger strength relative to their body weight. So technique starts with finger strength right? I don’t know how I can position my body closer to the wall when I’m smashed against it and my fingers are burning with every additional second I’m on there. These are relatively small, light muscles. Hangboarding only trains force in one direction, while climbing require three dimensional strength, even on crimps. Also the finger strength you do develop (because there is some) is very different than guitar muscles. Tyler Nelson's new effective finger strength active recruitment and muscle coordination protocols to break that climbing plateau! Looking to build your finger strength as a rock climber? These articles, podcasts, videos, and more can help you learn to strengthen and care for your fingers. It sounds like you're on the right track. Jan 26, 2024 · Finger strength is crucial in climbing, especially if you aim to climb hard. And crimps with good thumb catches Hence, worthless, completely and utterly--at least if you're trying to improve your climbing. You can't grip with greater force than the structures themselves can withstand. 1. I’ve noticed my form improve and I e gone from struggling with simple V2s to mastering tougher v3s. Hey, r/climbharder! I'm currently reading Overcoming Gravity ( r/overcominggravity , r/bodyweightfitness ) to see if I can better implement bodyweight strength and conditioning into a training program. Nov 9, 2022 · Methods of Training Finger Strength There are essentially 4 different methods in which you can train your finger strength: Climbing: Bouldering or climbing on a board Campusing: Either on a campus board or boulder wall Fingerboarding: Isometric hangs Lifting: Taken from grip strength sports However each method comes with its own level of precision in training, in other words how easy it is to Reddit's rock climbing training community. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Learn four essential fingerboard training protocols to improve your climbing strength and endurance. 5 hangs, 10 seconds each, with 2-3 minutes rest between each hang. In fact because I'm so strong I have to be really careful on slopers The only answer is time and consistency, introduce finger boards when there’s no climbs available that are challenging your fingers strength, or you’re adding weight to max hangs (after minimum a year of solid climbing) You theoretically can finger board now and probably avoid injury, but the reward for risk is not worth it. 12a) sport at my local climbing gym. Fixated strength testing for climbers is where dynamometry of the finger flexors is performed but the upper limb is “fixated” meaning it cannot move. Training your crushing grip strength as part of a well rounded hand/forearm prehab/strength protocol is great, training it as a substitute for climbing is not. Not only will you not be able to adhere to a 1000 calorie per day diet, but you will also quickly lose muscle and strength as your body will go into starvation mode and begin consuming its own muscle. Currently climbing V4 consistently, did my first v5 recently, and can flash most V3s. However, I've always felt as though finger strength is disproportionately holding me back. I've recently been working on improving my Finger Strength Analyzer tool. They are very different types of gripping. Climbing skill pretty much comes down to finger strength, bodyweight, technique, and endurance- so you need to work on all of them to get better. Useful in sports like climbing and martial arts, grip training will carry over to many aspects of every day life. Finger pushups train for flat finger strength. Here are some of the easiest and most basic finger strengthening exercises. In terms of finger strength, id like to note that ive been climbing around 3-4 times a week for the past year with no supplemental training. Climbing for 2 months? The best way to increase your finger strength right now is to just climb climb climb. F = ma. This will give you a basic idea of how hard you should be able to boulder and how much time you should invest in strength training to progress. What would you… Finger strength in climbing is often less about grip strength and more about how much force your pulleys and tendons can handle. Train for finger strength and the tendons take care of themselves. Additional strength training, especially for your fingers, isn’t recommended until you have at least a year of regular climbing. At the end of the day, you've got to realise that climbing is still largely a skill sport and finger strength is not a be-all end-all, and if you don't put enough time and effort into working hard problems then your max hang numbers count for fuck all. In the climbing community better climbers are talking to newbie climbers to focus on technique first and then on finger strength. 7 pounds) with two arms. However, I seem to have found a big difference between training bodyweight strength and climbing strength. Hangboarding is the method by which you increase your finger tendon strength. Aug 8, 2023 · Learn how to use the Tindeq Progressor to perform the perfect finger flexor Critical Force measurements and optimize your endurance training! A lot depends on morphology and a lot of rock pinches are more like pressure scums. Recovery time is critical for strength and injury prevention. Alternatively, you could begin a dedicated strength phase in which the climbing becomes the training intervention—i. The reason I like this is because despite their being merit to “just climbing” instead of training finger strength in isolation, I feel quite strongly a lot of new climbers at modern gyms will end up under training their fingers due to the heavy use of jugs and slopers. I typically use a hang gripper for thumb strength (pinches) and for warm up. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. I’ve been at this for about a month and absolutely love it. Now muscle / strength is increasing best when max, hypertrophy and endurance loads are applied. This can be accomplished by strapping the arm down, placing it is specialty device, or simply just resting the elbow on a table so that it cannot move. I would argue they are a more controlled and easier variant on campus boarding. To me that implies that one-arm hangs are actually better for isolating finger strength, at least on the fairly large edges used for testing (~18–20mm). I agree that strength (especially finger strength) is very important in climbing, but I’d like to caution against the idea that technique is mostly intuitive, and that most people will be able to “figure it out” by just climbing. I’ve been climbing 3. 110 votes, 58 comments. Looking for some advice. Both target finger and grip strength, but I'm curious about their comparative effectiveness for climbing. If you want to get strong, focus and don't freaking hang out with your friends. There's nothing wrong with training pull ups, but technique is the most important thing to learn in the beginning. It takes 2 or 3 months of climbing before your ligaments start to strengthen at all. While some routes offer generous, open-handed holds, others feature razor-thin grips that resemble the width of a credit card. Apr 9, 2018 · Background Heard about finger rolls from several different sources. Check it out! Finger strength I’ve been indoor climbing about once a week for 5 months now and seem to be struggling a lot with finger strength. So I've been climbing for about 1 year, 9 months and recently have tried lattice finger strength testing on their 20mm fingerboard to find my 1RM. They will help indirectly by helping you build mass that you can train up with static holds, but that takes a while. curious as to the main ways that finger strength are measured in climbers- fairly new to this but would love to learn more. Have you seen pretty significant finger gains from your kilter board climbing? I’d really much rather go that route than hangboard. The drop in max strength might be because that way of testing finger strength is unusual for you now - f. 10d is difficult but I am still completing most routes within 1 to 2 tries. Dec 18, 2020 · There are several exercises and tools that you can use to help make your fingers stronger and more capable of holding onto holds while you’re climbing. gvzb tdnmmof jzijq qhbbgt qtimsor uoo weuholu cknc saad liidg